Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: (Mayor) Ted Wilson, Curt Hawkins, 1962
Page Views: 9,260 total · 51/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Feb 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Again, Ruckmans only give this one star. But becuase it's not a 5.7 you can just muscle up, and it requires a bit of thought, and movement in and out of the groove, I give it two. Besides, it's another one that's just plain fun. This route follows the large, arcing groove splitting the Egg in half. Move up the face and groove as required, protecting in the pockets and irregularities. Good placement skills are advised. Belay at the belay station in the trees. The second pitch moves along the face to the crack about 20' right of the belay station, and then follows the groove to the top of the formation. Reaching this crack is a bit run-out, but again the climbing is easy.


Bring a full rack. The groove accepts a variety of nuts and cams up to 3".


Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Really interesting route for a 5.7 The gear is much trickier than other tough LCC 5.7s like Beckey's Wall, though I wouldn't go so far as to give it an R rating. Strange climbing throughout, and a more engaging lead than plug and chug 5.8s like bushwhack crack. This is a gem. Apr 3, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
There is a piton on the 2nd pitch, and chain anchors at the top of the 1st pitch. The top of the 2nd pitch has a couple of bolts with slings. Would you believe I bought some chains for the sole purpose of throwing on chainless anchors like this, but didn't bring them up. Finally, my thoughts on this route: The 1st pitch was an almost too easy 1st pitch. I didn't have any problem placing gear, and I only used a couple of cams, although I did run out the last 30 foot easy section. The 2nd pitch on the other hand forced me into a scared little ball. Well, maybe not that bad, but it was a tough off-width, IMO. I place a lot of gear and the smaller cams (yellow, orange Metolius) and a brass helped out on the flakes after the crack died. The area of the crack directly above the piton was very wet (This last Friday morning after all that rain), and my jams popped, forcing me into a fall. The faces on either side were way flaky as well. All in all though a good climb, with some diversity in styles and relatively good rock. May 14, 2005
Salt Lake City, UT
chrisnsmith   Salt Lake City, UT
Very fun climb. Led the first pitch and struggled following the second pitch. 2nd pitch did seem like a really tough 5.7. This is probably due to my little experience with offwidths (2nd pitch of Crescent is the only other offwidth I've climbed. The pro on the first pitch wasn't as tricky as I was expecting. I found that it took passive pro better than it did cams. Aug 16, 2007
Michael Buchanan  
History: The first pitch was rated 5.6, the second 5.7. I would tend to agree with this, the first pitch is not as difficult or sustained as Bong Bong Firecracker or Crescent Crack. It really isnt runout either. Remember your trad climbing roots! LCC is an old school area with old school grades . Sep 2, 2010
Jim D  
I just did the first pitch. It was very easy 5.7 (maybe even 5.6) and the protection was great, as long as you don't run out of TCUs. I didn't find it tricky at all. Find crack. Stick in TCU. Clip Rope. Repeat 8 feet later. The second pitch doesn't look fun at all, but I guess if you're into that sort of thing. :) Cracks are for hands and fingers, not elbows and knees. Nov 4, 2010
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
From bolted belay at top of P1, you can just make the rap with a single 60. P1 is a fun, relaxing climb that eats nuts up. Could use some more traffic/gardening! Oct 17, 2011
the second pitch is amazing. you can get some hand sized pieces initially, or plug a number four. i placed everything from .3 to number 2, though you can get a number 5 in for bomber protection.

after you leave the offwidth there is a really nice but dirty jug up and left, with opportunities for c3's or nuts. i was able to get a .3 to work but the second had her work cut out for her getting that thing out. a little chossy at the top but super fun.

there is a bolted anchor with chains at the top of the lowe blow offwidth (on the climber's right). rapping down from the top of p1 was perfect with a 70 meter, but i'd certainly tie some knots if i had a 60. Nov 28, 2012
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Be sure to get full value by doing the second pitch! For me, p2 didn't end up needing anything larger then a .5 BD. (well my first piece was a #13 stopper). If you exit out to the flakes on the left at the top, you will have to do a little bushwacking back to the east to get to the chains at the top of lowe blow. Dec 26, 2013
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
Did the first pitch, excellent, but I believe Stan Pitcher is incorrect, it took all of my 70m to get back down to the ground, rapping off the bolted belay station.

Very fun climb, totally worth the scramble if your like me, new(ish) to LCC and trying to eat up all of the easier climbs. Jan 6, 2014
chrisIerickson Erickson
Salt Lake, UT
chrisIerickson Erickson   Salt Lake, UT
I didn't find the protection difficult. A .5" alien protected the moves up to the crack, then it was good gear to the top. I didn't place anything above a .75" camalot.

The rap definitely needs a 70. May 21, 2014
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
A 70m rope is better and you can even lower with one (have your partner tie in first though) but you can rap with a 60m. You do have to downclimb a little though so it would be best to lower anyone uncomfortable with that. Oct 27, 2014
Thumer   SLC, UT
Pitch 2 is what made this route memorable. It is physical, but don't skip it. Nov 5, 2016
The big horn to the right of moving out of the crack at the end of the second pitch; the right portion / sub - horn of that horn is pretty loose. Nov 7, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Great 5.7 package. All about finesse and creative placements on the first pitch. Second pitch is a fun offwidth with plenty of chicken heads, hand jams, and holds to keep it within the grade. Protects easily with the gear used for first pitch. Nov 22, 2016