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Routes in The Egg

Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Arie Leeflang and Sean Brown, July 2005?
Page Views: 673 total, 11/month
Shared By: Arie on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Climbing the west end of The Egg formation “The Runnel” offers some interesting climbing. The crux is avoiding the inordinately large stack of rotten blocks that make up the left edge of the runnel. Start off an awkward series of low-angle slabs down about 50 feet from “Cracked Egg”- the climb's two bolts are fairly obvious. Climb up runout features from below or traverse in from the left on shrinking chickenheads and clip the first bolt. A second bolt comes quickly with a few slab moves and soon you are looping an engorged chickenhead. A moderate move reaches the runnel proper and a ladder of edges and side-cracks bring you to a low-angle section of rock on the arete left of Leggo. Belay in cracks or use one of the giant horns. We considered a chain anchor- but apparently this is the first belay on the odd Low Brow girdle and it just didn't seem right. Continue up the crack above (somewhat wide), finish the last few clips of Leggo, or rap off a doomed tree 10 feet down from the belay. Climbing this originally roped solo (some aid) I thought this climb was much harder- a partnered ascent eased the rating.

Location

West end of The Egg- around the corner from Leggo, and down hill from Cracked Egg. The two bolts are fairly obvious.

Protection

Light rack.

Photos

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