Type: Trad, TR, 150 ft
FA: Webster, Patenaude, Ellison '80
Page Views: 2,612 total · 15/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Huevos Rancheros is the second bolt line to the right of Variety Delight (obvious splitter groove up the center of the Egg). It is a long way between bolts.

You can either start this at the starting flake of Groovin', or start at Variety Delight and traverse right into the route. The first bolt is way up there, but an alien could be placed when passing the 5.6 groove of Lowe Blowe. Crux is right at the first bolt, then lots of incut features lead to the top. Angle left at the top to use the anchors of Variety Delight.

Two rope rappel to get off. This route can also be TRed after climbing Variety Delight.

Protection

3 bolts, yellow or red alien

Photos

M Hansen
  5.7
M Hansen  
  5.7
As a warning ... it is easy to miss the 1st bolt when starting up from Groovin' due to the indordinate number of bolts at the start of the new bolted line. The first bolt of Huevos Rancheros almost appears to be a part of the new route when looking over from the trough on Lowe Blowe.

Anecdote: I cruised up it earlier this spring and zipped right past the first bolt without clipping it. I mistakingly thought it was part of the new route out left. It was a long way(!) up to that 2nd bolt. Felt more so with just a TCU down below in the Lowe Blowe trough. Jul 14, 2005
Barry52  
I hope that the 2nd bolt was replaced. It was a scary one, a spinner, that looked like it would come out if you sneezed too hard. Great climb!! One of my first .7 leads. Pucker factor for me, then, was a 10+. Dec 9, 2009
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Definitely not R. Placing a #3 in the lowe blowe trough keeps it safe. Between bolts 1&2 wasn't much further than the runouts on leggo. Apr 11, 2013
Ben Folsom  
 
It used to be R before it was retrobolted and called a different name....... "Just say no to Crack". Apr 11, 2013
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Ben, just ignore the shiny bolts to the left and stick to the original line. No different than it was in the 80s Jul 2, 2013