Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: M. Ralph, M. Bogart, and K. Bogart
Page Views: 856 total · 5/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on May 27, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route starts on the belay ledge just right of Leggo my Eggo. It follows the obvious crack system up towards the arching line of Variety Delight. It appears from the ledge that you can climb this lower section crack and meet up with Variety Delight for the finish. I am sure that this is possible, but it wasn't for me. Over Easy traverses left when the protection runs out and heads across the the Leggo My Eggo face towards a bush on the arete on the left side. Clip a bolt or two depending on the diagonal line you take. When you get to the left side of the face use caution because the rock is not super clean (there is some flaking and chipping still going on.) Above the bush the climb angles back up the chimney / ledge system to the right. The climbing at this point is not difficult, however there is not really any protection available until you get up to the anchors.

The route in the guidebook continues up to the top of the formation via two variations. However, I stopped at the rappel station.

Side Note:I am posting this route not because it is super fun or anything, but because I am sure I am not the first moderate leader to head up the welcoming line thinking that "I will just jump into the Variety Delight crack" and to then chicken out and head left across the face. I think, in fact, that it is almost better to just continue up the Leggo My Eggo line rather than traverse all the way over to the left side.

Protection

The first 30 feet takes good normal pro from a trad rack. Crossing the face you are able to clip a bolt or two. The last 30 feet there is basically no protection.

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Reed Case
Denver, CO
Reed Case   Denver, CO
The new Tony Calderone book gives this route a G risk rating. MP says the last 30 ft are basically unprotected. Can anyone clear this up? Sep 15, 2014
zoso  
Simple: A wise climber wastes not money on TC's "guide" books. Sep 15, 2014