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Routes in The Egg
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Bushmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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DDT T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scrambled Eggs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57405, -111.76875 |
| FA: | M. Ralph, M. Bogart, and K. Bogart |
| Page Views: | 1,925 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on May 27, 2005 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route starts on the belay ledge just right of Leggo my Eggo. It follows the obvious crack system up towards the arching line of Variety Delight. It appears from the ledge that you can climb this lower section crack and meet up with Variety Delight for the finish. I am sure that this is possible, but it wasn't for me. Over Easy traverses left when the protection runs out and heads across the the Leggo My Eggo face towards a bush on the arete on the left side. Clip a bolt or two depending on the diagonal line you take. When you get to the left side of the face use caution because the rock is not super clean (there is some flaking and chipping still going on.) Above the bush the climb angles back up the chimney / ledge system to the right. The climbing at this point is not difficult, however there is not really any protection available until you get up to the anchors.
The route in the guidebook continues up to the top of the formation via two variations. However, I stopped at the rappel station.
Side Note:I am posting this route not because it is super fun or anything, but because I am sure I am not the first moderate leader to head up the welcoming line thinking that "I will just jump into the Variety Delight crack" and to then chicken out and head left across the face. I think, in fact, that it is almost better to just continue up the Leggo My Eggo line rather than traverse all the way over to the left side.
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