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Routes in The Egg

Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Hank Armantrout & Bill Cramer, 1982
Page Views: 1,482 total, 15/month
Shared By: Boissal on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Have you always thought the Ruckmans were off by 2 pins on the Groovin' topo? Did you traverse right and clipped a 5th piton on the day of the send? Then you're going to have to get back up there since you've finished on Go Van Gogh... INVALID!
The short steep dihedral below that last pin is home to this fun line that can be approached by climbing a moderate but unprotected slab from the Groovin' belay ledge.
Once in the corner, a series of awkward stemmy moves on thin gear lead to a piton and a fun mantle on the slab. Another body length of climbing and a piton later the route meets up with the finish of Groovin'.

Steep tricky, and kinda wild, another great line on the Egg.

Location

Go Van Gogh sits directly below the tree anchor used for Groovin' in a steep right facing corner.
Lower of the slung tree or use the new anchor of Old Peculier.

Protection

Microcams and small nuts for the dihedral, a couple of hand size pieces for the finish (whatever you use for the Groovin' roof).
2 pitons, maybe a sling for a small but surprisingly solid shrub.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9+
This is a very fun route that should not be missed! The run-out 5.6ish slab leading to the crack can be avoided by following a crack that comes in from the left - you'll want to use long slings and consider some back cleaning to avoid rope drag. Another option is to do Groovin first and then during rappel place and clip a solid piece or two in the bottom of the crack so the slab can be top-roped. The harder climbing up the bottom part of the crack protects well, the wild moves above has thinner gear (small nuts and maybe a cam) until you clip the first piton. Oct 17, 2011