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Routes in The Egg

Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ellison, Noble '82
Page Views: 3,567 total, 22/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Sep 17, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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63 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Groovin' is on the far right side of the Egg. Look for small roof that angles up and right, turning into a right facing dihedral. This route isn't very obvious, but can be picked out by looking for the fixed pins.

Start up an expando flake, then quickly reach the roof. Two pins and an alien placement lead to a good bolt. Thin moves above the bolt are protected by 2 more pins, stoppers, and small cams. Continue up through kindof crappy rock to an anchor made up of a small tree and a piton.

One rope rap (60m rope) to get back down. This route is pretty unique (beginning is really good), but the rock is ricey and there is quite a bit of vegetation.

Protection

4 pins, 1 bolt, small gear

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.8+
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.8+
The egg delivers another unique route. This 5.8 felt pretty moderate, but that may depend on how much you trust the pitons. There are a few locations to back them up, but for me it kept things interesting. Love how you are climbing two noticeably different slabs of granite for a good duration of the climb. Highly recommended! Mar 17, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
This felt a step easier than Satan's Corner. A reasonable 5.8 for LCC and an absolute blast to climb. Reminiscent of Perhaps with some trickier footwork thrown in. Bring plenty of alpine draws! Nov 28, 2014
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Climbed this yesterday. There are 5 pins plus the bolt, although one pin was pretty hidden and I found it only after my hand hit it while underclinging. There's also lots of dirt and pretty yellow flowers in the cracks so bring your nut tool on lead to clear out a couple placements. Spicy lead. Me likey. Sep 12, 2013
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
This route is really cool and interesting. Probably would be worth 3 stars if not for some of the poor rock quality in spots. I found this stout for a 5-8+ lead...even old school rating. I thought Satan's Corner was easier, but then again maybe I'm just not great at slab footwork. Sep 27, 2011
Fun varied route. There is a two bolt anchor at the top. Jun 23, 2010
Great route I like it every time I do it. thanks Les....I linked it up to Rodeo Girls in Bondage. Definately the best way to do it. makes a great outing try it. Steve Jul 29, 2009
Ben Folsom
  5.8+ PG13
Ben Folsom  
  5.8+ PG13
Wow!! totally classic. Unique and interesting, great climb for a moderate in LCC. Jun 15, 2009
Timmy Fearn
  5.8+
Timmy Fearn  
  5.8+
I definitely counted 5 pins as well... a good fun one. The exposure due to the drop off to the right was better than coffee. May 9, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
I thought I counted 5 pitons (I could definitely be wrong). A very fun route, with very fun moves. I agree with Stan, and stayed right at the end where a #2 Camalot helped protect the exit move. Take measures to reduce rope drag. After doing both pitches of Variety Delight, this route was a fun relaxing finish to the day. May 14, 2005
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
I love this route and it deserves at least 2 stars!

Stay right near the top for better rock and climbing (same finish as Go Van Gogh).

These routes could really use a chain anchor. The higher tree anchor is dieing! I have an unused hand-drill - anyone want to mentor me on how to put in a good anchor there? Mar 17, 2005