Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis, 1990
Page Views: 5,092 total · 28/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Feb 29, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

113 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


On the far west side of Egg is a bolt line ascending the mottled, scrambled egg looking face. The crux is right off the 1st bolt, and is quite short. The rest of the climb max's out at 5.8 and is just plain fun slab climbing. It even has a nice LCC runout midway up! Follow the bolt line as it flows up through cups and edges to the 8th bolt. Here, shuffle right and belay at the "Variety Delight" belay in among the trees. To continue to the top of the formation probably taxes a 60m rope, but having never continued on, I couldn't tell you. Don't hike to the Egg without doing this route.


8 quickdraws. I scamper right to the belay station for "Variety Delight" after the 8th bolt. If you continue on to the very top of the formation, you'll need some medium sized nuts and cams.


John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
I think an argument could be made to call this a three star route. The 'mottled' face is an excellent line on a very cool rock formation. For a visiting climber to the slc area, climbs like this will stick out in their memory. Very unique, with a wonderful position looking down from the anchors. That said, I would also like to recommend this climb to 5.8 leaders as the 5.10 section is short and can easily be french freed / aided. Above the first two bolts, the climbing sticks to the lesser grades of 5.7/5.8. May 28, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
There are now chains at the top. A two-move sequence of 5.10a climbing, with consistent 5.7-5.8 climbing above. The runout keeps it exciting. This route is still a great route, just not consistent enough for more than two stars. Jun 4, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Almost forgot, a 70m rope is not quite long enough to get you to the bottom. So, use common sense... 2 ropes or 1 70m rope with a knot tied into the end and a 10 foot downclimb. If you opt for the downclimb, aim rappellers right, just right of the large crack. Jun 4, 2005
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Not consistent??? What is that suppose to mean? Visiting climbers, "Climb this route!" It is a Little Cottonwood classic.

(No offense Nathan...that kind of comment is the purpose of 'side comments.') Jun 5, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
No offense taken. All I meant by not consistent is that it starts off with a couple of fun 5.10 moves, and then steps it down a bit to a consistent 5.7-5.8 route. It is still a great route that deserves to be climbed, but... it is not consistent. The semi-runout above makes the easier sections more heady which is what makes the climb a great route. But I stand by my "not consistent" description. I could be wrong, and probably am; however, I am just stating my opinion, as were you. Sometimes we agree, sometimes we don't. No biggie. Jun 5, 2005
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
Too long to rap down from the new chains at the top with a 70m rope. Instead, use a long runner at those chains and traverse to the Variety Delight chains where a single rope will reach. (at least that's what I did today...) Jul 25, 2009
Jim D  
Great route. Two challenges-first the footwork in the first ten feet, then the head work as the bolts go from 5 feet apart to ~25 feet apart. The bolts are solid, even a long fall would be pretty clean, and the bolts are in the right places, but don't be expecting a "sport" route up high.

Thanks to whoever put the chains in at the top. I'm not sure what someone was talking about with the cams/nuts between the top bolt and the chains. If you can get something into that groove it surely would only function as psychological protection. Nov 4, 2010
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
The anchors at the top are badly deformed. It appears as if someone took a hard fall on them. While they will hold up to a top rope, anchor, or rappel (as done today), it may be good to get them replaced.

Other than that, awesome climb!

Jun 26, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
That right hanger is a Petzl cave hanger. Doesn't look deformed to me at all.

Does sound like a job for Mike, though. Jun 26, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Whew! Another LCC headpiece to add to your collection. I'm used to R in Little despite the lack of a R in the rating, but this one sure pushes the limits of what I would determine a safe bolting distance. Having said that, I will counter my distressful comments by saying I thought the runout is what made this route awesome! This ain't no Theater of Shaadows up in City of Rocks. As others have said expect at least 20' between some bolts and 15' on average. 8 bolts over 150', you do the math. As for the anchors at the top, there are two sets: One above this climb and another on Variety. Both in excellent condition as of Oct. '11. We rappelled this route with one 60m, taking a hard eastward(right) direction to the base of Variety, removing at least 30' from the rappel as Variety starts higher, and managed fine with a short 10' easy downclimb. So don't fret if you don't have a 70m or two ropes. I think this rap is only 115', not 150' based on our experience. Oct 30, 2011
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
If you find yourself in distress looking up at the last bolt from the left, consider getting over to the right and approaching it from that side... Mar 21, 2016