[Hide Comment] I think an argument could be made to call this a three star route. The 'mottled' face is an excellent line on a very cool rock formation. For a visiting climber to the slc area, climbs like this will stick out in their memory. Very unique, with a wonderful position looking down from the anchors. That said, I would also like to recommend this climb to 5.8 leaders as the 5.10 section is short and can easily be french freed / aided. Above the first two bolts, the climbing sticks to the lesser grades of 5.7/5.8. May 28, 2005

[Hide Comment] There are now chains at the top. A two-move sequence of 5.10a climbing, with consistent 5.7-5.8 climbing above. The runout keeps it exciting. This route is still a great route, just not consistent enough for more than two stars. Jun 4, 2005

[Hide Comment] Almost forgot, a 70m rope is not quite long enough to get you to the bottom. So, use common sense... 2 ropes or 1 70m rope with a knot tied into the end and a 10 foot downclimb. If you opt for the downclimb, aim rappellers right, just right of the large crack. Jun 4, 2005

[Hide Comment] Not consistent??? What is that suppose to mean? Visiting climbers, "Climb this route!" It is a Little Cottonwood classic.

(No offense Nathan...that kind of comment is the purpose of 'side comments.') Jun 5, 2005

[Hide Comment] No offense taken. All I meant by not consistent is that it starts off with a couple of fun 5.10 moves, and then steps it down a bit to a consistent 5.7-5.8 route. It is still a great route that deserves to be climbed, but... it is not consistent. The semi-runout above makes the easier sections more heady which is what makes the climb a great route. But I stand by my "not consistent" description. I could be wrong, and probably am; however, I am just stating my opinion, as were you. Sometimes we agree, sometimes we don't. No biggie. Jun 5, 2005

[Hide Comment] Too long to rap down from the new chains at the top with a 70m rope. Instead, use a long runner at those chains and traverse to the Variety Delight chains where a single rope will reach. (at least that's what I did today...) Jul 25, 2009

[Hide Comment] Great route. Two challenges-first the footwork in the first ten feet, then the head work as the bolts go from 5 feet apart to ~25 feet apart. The bolts are solid, even a long fall would be pretty clean, and the bolts are in the right places, but don't be expecting a "sport" route up high.

Thanks to whoever put the chains in at the top. I'm not sure what someone was talking about with the cams/nuts between the top bolt and the chains. If you can get something into that groove it surely would only function as psychological protection. Nov 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] The anchors at the top are badly deformed. It appears as if someone took a hard fall on them. While they will hold up to a top rope, anchor, or rappel (as done today), it may be good to get them replaced.

Other than that, awesome climb!





Jun 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] That right hanger is a Petzl cave hanger. Doesn't look deformed to me at all.

Does sound like a job for Mike, though. Jun 26, 2011

[Hide Comment] Whew! Another LCC headpiece to add to your collection. I'm used to R in Little despite the lack of a R in the rating, but this one sure pushes the limits of what I would determine a safe bolting distance. Having said that, I will counter my distressful comments by saying I thought the runout is what made this route awesome! This ain't no Theater of Shaadows up in City of Rocks. As others have said expect at least 20' between some bolts and 15' on average. 8 bolts over 150', you do the math. As for the anchors at the top, there are two sets: One above this climb and another on Variety. Both in excellent condition as of Oct. '11. We rappelled this route with one 60m, taking a hard eastward(right) direction to the base of Variety, removing at least 30' from the rappel as Variety starts higher, and managed fine with a short 10' easy downclimb. So don't fret if you don't have a 70m or two ropes. I think this rap is only 115', not 150' based on our experience. Oct 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] If you find yourself in distress looking up at the last bolt from the left, consider getting over to the right and approaching it from that side... Mar 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] You definitely need an 80m to TR/ Lower off of this!!!

Also every bolt is very rusted Oct 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] Somebody found and snagged the pink BD draw we left on the last bolt on 5/29/24. I went to rescue it 3 days later and it was gone. If that was you, and you are SLC adjacent, I'd love to get that back!

We read the comments about the 70m rope and down climb but I definitely seemed like more than 10 feet, we didn't feel it was safe after lowering and bailed off the last bolt. I don't recommend messing around with that, but when I went back up I noticed there is another set of chains around half way up on the climbers left that you could use to double rap. Jun 3, 2024

[Hide Comment] Everything about this route is excellent - from the positioning on a unique rock formation high above LCC, to the nails hard yet well protected slab boulder, to the JTree-esque spacey 5.8 friction business on the final 130 feet protected by a lone 6 bolts on perfecto golden varnish granite - this one isn't to be missed.

Linking with the final 5.7 OW of Variety Delight via a second short pitch is fluent and recommended. Toss a long sling on the anchor for Leggo and paddle right to the anchor for VD. You can trail a tagline to the first pitch anchor for VD, then climb the second pitch of VD and rappel back to the anchor with a single 60, then use both ropes to return to terra firma.

So fun! Nov 5, 2024