Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ari Greenberg and Marc Beverly
Page Views: 10,076 total · 48/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 20, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This climb is on the main face and is the bolted line on the left of the "middle" part of the egg. It climbs pockets and good hands to the top. Use a 70m rope for rappel.


2 bolts at the top for anchors. 7 draws for the climb.


M Hansen
M Hansen  
Fun route.

Concensus from everyone I know is that it is more like 5.7. About the same difficulty as Huevos Rancheros, but with tons(!) of protection. Mar 7, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Climbed this one again, and did I say 5.8, what an idiot. I will change the route to 5.7. May 14, 2005
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
I disagree with the above comment. This was a fun route, and I agree with it being a 5.7 more like a 5.6 on the upper part of the route where the jugs get bigger. Fun, friction-y moves on the bottom. Thanks to whoever bolted it! Nov 25, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Seems like a squeeze job to me too. Only 4 to 8 feet away from both Variety Delight and Huevos Rancheros. Had been TR'd as a alternative to either of those routes, too, methinks. Any idear who put this up? Nov 28, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
I climbed it years ago, before the lower bolts were added. It use to have a healthy 30ftish runout to the first bolt (which is now the 3rd or 4th bolt). I do know that the lower 2-3 bolts have only been added in the last 5 years. Nov 28, 2006
Marc Beverly
New Mexico
Marc Beverly   New Mexico
Great route for beginners: 5.7-ish 8 bolts, 2BA. Approach the Egg and gain the belay ledge in the middle of the base. Start up the face to the left of "Variety Delight Crack" and then step over the crack to gain the first bolt. A quick mantle move gets you above the bolt (crux). Then continue up great friction climbing up past bolts that were placed on "lead." The 2 bolt anchor allows for easy abseil with a 60+m rope or 2x 50m ropes (better option). Aug 6, 2007
Once you get out of the start (admittedly, you can place gear in Variety Delight for the first ten feet), I feel like it is a truly nice line that, although easily TR'd from Variety Delight's anchors, makes for a great lead for beginning climbers. Little Cottonwood is not full of moderate routes with bolts this close, and certainly the runout thing to the Right of it is not for the timid, or the fledgling beginner. I think this is a great route for people getting into the sport, and hope it gets left alone. Oct 4, 2007
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.7 PG13
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.7 PG13
I found a little more adventure in this route than I expected. I have very little experience leading or following on Little Cottonwood granite, so the slabby friction climbing was a little tough mentally for me. It's hard to trust your feet when you haven't tested your limits on top rope. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the climb. I suggest a PG-13 rating because blowing a clip could result in a 20-25 ft whipper across the surface of a cheese grater. At the start, I placed #2 and #3 Mastercams in the Variety Delight crack. Apr 18, 2010
Jim D  
An intelligent route. Squeezed? Perhaps. But guess which one most 5.7 climbers will be doing from now on. I looked at it after rappelling from variety delight and found the climbing a little harder than it looked and the protection a little better than it initially looked. 5.7 is about right, with a bolt nearby for every harder move.

Thanks Mark for putting it up. Routes like this are worth much more than its run out neighbor to the right. If you're going to put up an R/X route make it hard enough that you can brag to someone you did it. A 5.7 R route is just being lazy IMHO. I'd be embarrassed to leave my name on a route like that. I don't know of any 5.7 climbers who like climbing runouts and I don't know of any 5.10 climbers that like climbing 5.7s. There's no reason a route like this can't be adequately bolted, even when done on lead. Nov 4, 2010
So you are saying you would be embarrassed to be Les Ellison or Ed Webster?? Did you look at the year Huevos Rancheros was put up? In 1980. In 1980 there was no such thing as "sport" climbing yet. People still carried big nuts between their legs back then.

It is a good idea to consult the history section of guidebooks often to get an idea of an areas climbing past and how it evolved.

There are many different styles in climbing. If every route had a big shiny bolt every 8 feet, what would we have to aspire to other than technical difficulty?

By the way, I am a 5.10 climber, and I love to climb at every grade from 3rd class to harder than my abilities. Nov 5, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
An "intelligent route"? Nope. A dumbed down route, that takes away from the original routes on either side of it.

I'd consider myself a 5.7 climber, and, Huevos is one of my favorite leads in LCC. I have strong memories of that route, and, not of this new one.

Don't get me wrong, I think its an ok route and a nice line. Its a shame that it had to be squeezed in between the two classics on the face, because, yeah, now not many folks are going to lead Huevos now. But, maybe there aren't many of that type of climber around any more anyhow...heavy sigh.

If you've ever established a new route, on lead, with a hand drill, then you'll understand what it took to get Huevos done. Had nothing to do with being "lazy" (which is a pretty silly comment). Go chat with Ed and Les, after learning some of their history, then see if you'd call them lazy. Reeks of ignorance. But, not surprising.

Spot on comments, Ben. 5.10 climber my arse (!). Nov 5, 2010
Jim D  
Sorry, haven't been on this page in years. Although it's been a while, I think I meant to say that if you're putting up a 5.7 now it ought to be reasonably protected so today's 5.7 climbers will actually climb it. I didn't mean to denigrate those who danced up these slabs in hard soled shoes prior to the invention of cams taking multiple long whippers putting in bolts on lead when 5.7 was a serious grade.

I also agree it's a little close to previous routes.

The problem with putting up a runout route just because you can is that it prevents anyone else who prefers to climb in a different style from ever doing it any other way. Most climbers, rightly, will respect the style of the first ascent party, which if they did a crappy job pretty much screws the experience of everyone else. Imagine if every 5.10 in the canyon was put up by a 5.13 climber who was into 30 foot runouts. There wouldn't be anything for the mortals to climb.

Everyone bashed on the Uriostes at Red Rock, but whose routes get climbed 10 times a day and which ones get climbed twice a year? Who provided more value for the climbing community?

You just have to think about future parties when establishing a first ascent. I think the first ascensionists of this route did that. Nov 1, 2013