Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Kent Jameson, Ken Gygi 1982
Page Views: 1,087 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Well, I checked it out on 11/23. We climbed to the top of the Egg (2nd pitch of Variety Delight), and then scrambled and bushwhacked and scrambled some more to the base of the crag.The route I chose started behind the big pine at the base, a rightward angling finger crack (5.9) with some tricky gear started things off.Meets a nice vertical hand crack with good gear, which pinches down to some flaring pod-jams briefly (5.10).After another 15 feet of nice jams, the vertical crack intersects the left angling "mexi-crack" which initially caught my attention.There are slings on a horn to bail at this point.I clipped the slings, shoved in a cam and tried the mexi-crack, but the rock turns to pebbles both in the crack and underfoot.I gave up after 3 or 4 short falls and bailed from the horn.There was a way old ring-peg, and some slings already on the horn, so it's definitely not new.I give it one star for great setting and fun moves, but the rock quality goes from fair to poor.If the finish had decent rock, it would get 2 stars.

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Yeah the route is pretty clearly Windjammer. I likewise was seduced by the route while climbing at the Sail. I climbed the route in winter 2002 and found some mank gear that clearly had been there for years (YEARS). The webbing mentioned that was left on the horn was likely mine (there was none at the time of my ascent)- I remember threading it through a old pin behind. The diagnoling initial crack was great and the route degrading above after a small stance. The bushwack was possibly the most joyous part. Nov 26, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Mark,It is in the book under the Egg, I believe. (In St. George, and I didn't bring my book with me.) The 5.10 crack above the Egg. Windjammer????I also looked and saw and drooled, (from atop the second pitch of the Coffin) then realized which route it was, and saw my FA melt before my eyes. Let me (us)know what you think about it when you do it. Nov 26, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Just relocated all the info to Windjammer from Hidden Rock. P.S. Mark I tried to give you a heads up, but your e-mail is bad. Nov 27, 2005
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.10
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.10
Yeah, It's Windjammer; I checked the guide....first done in 1982.There's no topo, just an obvious description.The crag is visible from the road below the Egg, it's not "hidden" as much as I thought! Nov 27, 2005
Alec LaLonde
  5.9+
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9+
Great jamming in that hand crack. Rock is quite gritty but the gear isn't too bad. Our group of 3 agreed on more of a 5.9 rating. Jul 7, 2010