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Routes in The Egg
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Bushmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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DDT T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scrambled Eggs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57405, -111.76875 |
| FA: | Kent Jameson, Ken Gygi 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,990 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Michaels on Dec 31, 2005 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Well, I checked it out on 11/23. We climbed to the top of the Egg (2nd pitch of Variety Delight), and then scrambled and bushwhacked and scrambled some more to the base of the crag.The route I chose started behind the big pine at the base, a rightward angling finger crack (5.9) with some tricky gear started things off.Meets a nice vertical hand crack with good gear, which pinches down to some flaring pod-jams briefly (5.10).After another 15 feet of nice jams, the vertical crack intersects the left angling "mexi-crack" which initially caught my attention.There are slings on a horn to bail at this point.I clipped the slings, shoved in a cam and tried the mexi-crack, but the rock turns to pebbles both in the crack and underfoot.I gave up after 3 or 4 short falls and bailed from the horn.There was a way old ring-peg, and some slings already on the horn, so it's definitely not new.I give it one star for great setting and fun moves, but the rock quality goes from fair to poor.If the finish had decent rock, it would get 2 stars.
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