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Routes in Talk Buttress

Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ruckman, Ruckman
Page Views: 157 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 8, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This climbs staight up the face to the pin, and then crosses Look Who's Talking just right of a nice hand crack (look for the bolt). Beware, the Ruckman guide is wrong. There is 1 extra bolt between the pin and the roof, and the bolt above the roof is hangerless. This is where the runout exists, as well as your pre-pin moves. This climb has nice sharp edges on beautiful quartzite. Fun moves galore. The finish makes this climb.

Protection

1 pin, and 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Otherwise bring a couple of pieces to protect the stretches between fixed gear. Nothing special.

Photos

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Greg Z
Sandy, UT
Greg Z   Sandy, UT
Each point where the bolts are sketch, there is a good trad placement within 3' that is easy to place from a slightly higher stance. I put in a TCU above the rusty 1/4" bolt and a nut above the stud without a hanger. Remember that you can use a nut wire on a hangerless bolt. Just push the nut toward the swage and then back up to cinch it tight. I would not want to whip into that rig, but it helps me get the guts to move up the next few feet to get the good gear. Jul 7, 2012
Altitude adjustment
SLC,Utah
  5.9+ PG13
Altitude adjustment   SLC,Utah
  5.9+ PG13
Fun climb with some pumpy moves. When protecting the bolt - the hanger, throw on the wire from a nut and then snug it up with the end of your nut tool so that it is solid; you can also leave a heavy piece of gear + an alpine sling so that the wire stays in place and protects securely. 7 days ago
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Good old school standard 5.9. Not runnout but not a clip up. Gear is fine if you have the right sizes. Best route on the wall Jul 2, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Great climb! Thought there was plenty of supplement gear placements to make this thing safe.
  • *GEAR ALERT**-the last bolt hanger is missing and the stud is sticking out. Pretty good gear all around it so wasn't a problem.
Jun 18, 2011
I don't think this climb is safe.

You have the pin, followed by a new bolt, followed by an old 1/4" bolt. If this 1/4" bolt fails, you're looking at about a 35' fall, and would be very close to hitting the ground. It's rusted as all get-out too.

As far as the first half of the climb goes, there really aren't many good gear placements, you're pretty reliant on the fixed gear to keep you off the deck. Jun 9, 2010
Jeff Guest
Coalville, UT
  5.9
Jeff Guest   Coalville, UT
  5.9
This was my first climb actually placing nuts for protection. No runout except for the first 15' to the pin, plenty gear placements when you need them. 1 pin, 2 bolts on the first half of the wall. Use pro the last half. Aug 20, 2009
I climbed this again,a nd I would agree that there is no runout. Also, looking at my old book...it shows that the beginning is in the crack system right of the piton. This makes it a little safer beginning. Finally, I had forgotten how magnificent a finish this route has. Jun 25, 2007
Cameron Charles  
  5.9
I didn't think this was R rated, there are some runouts but not in difficult sections. The top bolt hanger was missing, but there was several bomber gear placements adjacent to it. I used a medium sized nut and a 0.4 camalot C4. It is a great route, highly recommended. Jun 20, 2007
Vince Romney
  5.9
Vince Romney  
  5.9
Currently, the bolts are 1/4", on old SMC hangars. I really enjoyed the climb otherwise. Have your trad skills honed as the pro is limited. Jun 10, 2005