Elevation: 5,323 ft
GPS: 40.613, -111.786 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 197,850 total · 939/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics.

Ice Climbing

The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).

Getting There

Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ferguson Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 86
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 137
Inner Light
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Hellfire Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 166
Imperial
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 264
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Fire and Brimstone
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 152
Uncensored Society
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 105
Conflict
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 74
Fortress
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Skinny Len Crimps
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 54
Drunk Punk Oi
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
Concrete Jungle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 44
Steel Reserve
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 40
Fuego
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Confessional Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 86
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 137
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Hellfire Variation Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Imperial Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 166
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Extreme Unction Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 264
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Fire and Brimstone Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Total X Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 84
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Uncensored Society Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 152
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Conflict Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 105
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Fortress Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 74
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Skinny Len Crimps Cathedral
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Drunk Punk Oi Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 54
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Concrete Jungle Tower Of Babel
 43
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Steel Reserve Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 44
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Fuego Tower Of Babel
 40
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ferguson Canyon »

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