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Ferguson Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Ferguson Canyon

Animation Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Bob's Rocking Chair 7 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Cathedral, The 13 / 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Cosmic Thing Wall 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Diminutive Wall 5 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Duomo Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Eldorado 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Gallant Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Goldenfingers Wall 10 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Grayo 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Guano Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Heart Wall 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Punk Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Space Station 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Tower Of Babel 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Watchtower, The 30 / 22 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50

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Elevation:	5,323 ft	1,622 m
GPS:	40.61091, -111.78814 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	296,069 total · 1,034/month
Shared By:	Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics.

Ice Climbing

The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).

Getting There

Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.

132 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ferguson Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 203 ● Inner Light Trad, TR Watchtower > Watchtower Main
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 241 ● Imperial Sport Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 372 ● Extreme Unction Trad, TR Watchtower > Watchtower Main
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 254 ● Uncensored Society Sport Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 172 ● Conflict Sport Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 115 ● Fortress Trad Watchtower > Watchtower Main
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 114 ● Skinny Len Crimps Sport Cathedral
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● Material World Sport Tower Of Babel
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 87 ● Drunk Punk Oi Sport Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 64 ● Concrete Jungle Sport Tower Of Babel
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 98 ● Steel Reserve Trad Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 20 ● Get a Pump or Jump Trad Tower Of Babel
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 66 ● Fuego Sport Tower Of Babel
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 9 ● Midnight Ravers Sport Tower Of Babel
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 8 ● Crown of Thorns Sport Watchtower > Watchtower Main