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Elevation: 5,323 ft
GPS: 40.61091, -111.78814
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 292,378 total · 1,148/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

This small canyon is just to the south of Big Cottonwood Canyon and is a great place to beat the summer heat. There are several small crags on north-facing walls under a canopy of large trees. A small stream runs by and sometimes makes it difficult to get up there without getting your feet wet. The canyon is also a popular place for picnics.

Ice Climbing Suggest change

The popular summer crag canyon actually has ice! No much of ice, but I was able to front point up about 45' in April. If you hike on the Ferguson trail, passing all the climbing buttresses, you'll see some flows on the south side of the canyon. It's as simple as that, hike till you see ice, if you don't see ice, keep hiking (unless nothing formed that year).

Getting There

Suggest change
Follow directions to the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a 7-11 store here, at the intersection of Wasatch Blvd (Hwy 210) and Fort Union Blvd (Hwy 190, also 7200 South). From this intersection, head south on Wasatch Blvd for a quarter mile and turn left (east) into the Prospector Drive neighborhoods. Take an immediate right and head south up the hill. Take the second left onto Timberline drive and park alongside the right side of the road near the trailhead sign. A dirt road leads to a white water tower and then turns into a trail that descends into the canyon. Follow various branching trails east into the mouth of the canyon. The trail and almost all climbs are on the south side of the stream. The approach for the first climbs on the Watchtower is 15-20 minutes.

123 Total Climbs

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Location: Ferguson Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ferguson Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 116
The Confessional
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 179
Inner Light
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 208
Imperial
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 327
Extreme Unction
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Total X
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 198
Uncensored Society
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 141
Conflict
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Fortress
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 99
Skinny Len Crimps
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 52
Concrete Jungle
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Steel Reserve
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Get a Pump or Jump
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 57
Fishlips
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
Fuego
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Crown of Thorns
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Confessional Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 116
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Inner Light Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 179
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Imperial Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 208
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Extreme Unction Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 327
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Total X Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Uncensored Society Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 198
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Conflict Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 141
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Fortress Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Skinny Len Crimps Cathedral
 99
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Concrete Jungle Tower Of Babel
 52
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Steel Reserve Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers
 76
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Get a Pump or Jump Tower Of Babel
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Fishlips Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 57
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Fuego Tower Of Babel
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crown of Thorns Watchtower > Watchtower Main
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ferguson Canyon »

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