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Routes in Riptide Wall

'Lectric Granny T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astroprojection T,S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crosscurrent S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Rotten Horror T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the Sea T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jazz the Glass S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riptide T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where There's a Drill, There's a Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: B. Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 2,995 total, 18/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are beautiful edges and long reachy hands that tire the fingers. Look for a hidden (Bomber) pocket that appears out of nowhere, near the top. As the Ruckman's say, this is the testpiece of the Parley's climbs, master this and you are the King of Parleys. Bolt 1 or 2 seemed like the hanger was bent.


6 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. These anchors can be used for the climbs Dirty Rotten Horror, Edge of the Sea, and Riptide, so a top-rope can be set this way. Also some small to medium gear might be prudent.


Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Since recently or since always? They sure look skinny and manky but I never really had any qualms with whipping on them... May 8, 2013
These bolts are 3/8" 5 piece rawls.

Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers. May 7, 2013
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Every bolt is a 1/4" spinner on this line. Makes for a spicy lead...
A #8 nut backs up the 2nd bolt nicely and will keep you of the ground in case of a catastrophic event. A .5 or .75 also fits in the crack between the 4th and 5th bolt just in case.
Everything is "on" except for the arete, it's not like there are so many holds you can afford to not use some of them. Both cracks are needed above the roof anyway.
The upper bulges require lots of balance and some unlikely thumb underclinging. The last move is a tendon-ripper, make sure you have the sequence dialed. Jun 9, 2009
If you can clip bolts from the location in question, it is on. The only "OFF" thing is the left arete. Jun 20, 2006
Joey Henderson
Salt Lake City
Joey Henderson   Salt Lake City
does anyone know if you are supposed to follow he crack on the left or the right? Or are they both on? Jun 20, 2006
off...on.....if you can reach it, and aren't looking at a huge swing, i'd say it's on. Jun 7, 2006
Vince Romney
Vince Romney  
I used it, but don't know if it's "on" or not. It may actually be part of "Dirty Rotten Horror". The only thing I know is "off" for sure is the arete on the left of the upper face. Jul 26, 2004
Anyone know wether that nice block on yr right @ the roof is on? I put my foot on it but i wasn't sure. Jul 8, 2004