Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,465 total · 29/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Description

Approach as per Layback Crack. This climbs the right trending crack in the face. Finger to hand climbing that proved to be very strenuous. This climb is beautiful nonetheless.

Protection

2 chains atop for the anchors. Standard rack, avoiding the small stuff and the larger stuff. My 1st piece was a nut and the rest were SLCD's (more out of convenience than neccesity).
Vince Romney
  5.9
Vince Romney  
  5.9
Did this again on Memorial Day, and I forgot how cool this is! Bomber jams, slight overhang, and killer stems for stances while placing pro. This is a great pre-climb for Goodro's. Stemming saves the arms. Jun 2, 2004
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
Agree with Vince! This climb may spank some unsusupecting 5.9 leaders (like it did me a couple years ago). Be ready to crank from the start. Really too short to get 2 stars, but better than a 1 star, so what the hell. Jun 4, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Finally lead this...What a pump. I was almost more pumped than after Goodro's. Aug 23, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Almost forgot, the chain anchors are not in the best position for this climb. A natural anchor can be had easily. Aug 23, 2004
Ishmail
Utah
  5.9
Ishmail   Utah
  5.9
I finally did this climb and it is a great one. If it were only a little longer. Nice jams and fun stemming. Oct 17, 2005
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
The first 20-25 feet is the beef of the climb. Then it turns to classic BCC 5.8. Quality. Aug 3, 2007
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.9+
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.9+
I've done this one several times now, I gotta say that I really like it! Pumpy, nicely protected, and great movement. Jul 20, 2010
Rockwood
West Jordan
Rockwood   West Jordan
With a 70m rope we did this and kept going to the top of the second pitch of Layback and walked off. True the top section will feel just like steep hiking after doing the crack but it's always fun to top out on something. Oct 9, 2012
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
It's pumpy! This was a tricky one for me, but once I worked out the gear and moves through the lower section it felt much more manageable. Doubles in 2s, 1s, and .75s did the trick for me. Oct 7, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9+
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9+
This is a pretty classic Big Cottonwood 5.9 test piece. It may be short and sweet, but absolutely worth it. I have heard many say that the start is more awkward than any part on goodros, but I did not find it as pumpy. May 1, 2015