Type: Trad
FA: Pat McCarthy & Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 648 total · 20/month
Shared By: patmccarthy on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Just right of Gateway is a unique thin crack. A tricky boulder start over an elevator shaft will initially catch your attention (this is hard to protect so take precaution as a fall here could be suboptimal). Tips lead to good finger locks, pass L under a roof and head to the Gateway anchor

Location

Right of Gateway

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
So good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/tips cracks at the crag! I thought it was harder than Tawtnak Tiicham and Monster, but easier than Sustenance and Alchemy.

It's worth noting that the FA was done with a 'stick-clipped' hand-sized piece in the pod and that this is a fully reasonable course of action given the start. (would eliminate the PG13 entirely) Nov 2, 2016
The FA can blame me for the pre-placed pro: I wasn't gonna rescue him if he blew the opening moves and fell down the "elevator shaft" underneath this route. Was a moot point as he hiked it. Nov 20, 2016