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Routes in The Main Wall

Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gas Chamber T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landing a Monster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muffin Top T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of the Question T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Space Mission T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
U3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Pat McCarthy & Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 363 total · 20/month
Shared By: patmccarthy on Aug 8, 2016
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year@SEMICOLON@ No top access - private land Details

Description

Just right of Gateway is a unique thin crack. A tricky boulder start over an elevator shaft will initially catch your attention (this is hard to protect so take precaution as a fall here could be suboptimal). Tips lead to good finger locks, pass L under a roof and head to the Gateway anchor

Location

Right of Gateway

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

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The FA can blame me for the pre-placed pro: I wasn't gonna rescue him if he blew the opening moves and fell down the "elevator shaft" underneath this route. Was a moot point as he hiked it. Nov 20, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12- PG13
Sooo good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/tips cracks at the crag! I thought it was harder than Tawtnak Tiicham and Monster, but easier than Sustenance and Alchemy.

It's worth noting that the FA was done with a 'stick-clipped' hand-sized piece in the pod and that this is a fully reasonable course of action given the start. (would eliminate the PG13 entirely) Nov 2, 2016