All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Alchemy

Name: Alchemy
Rating: 4.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Community Pillars T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Double Trouble Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Flying with Goldens T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Holding the Line T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
	Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Ideal Schedule, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Immortal Illusions T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Landing a Monster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lou Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Main Stream T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mr. Squiggles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Muffin Top T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Out of the Question T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Shadow Casting T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Space Mission T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Unknown 1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown 4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA:	F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06
Page Views:	8,826 total · 51/month
Shared By:	Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Likely the most common 'first 5.12' for many at Trout. (though by no means the easiest tick...) Rattly fingers and liebacking leads to a cruxy transition into fingers and eventually a rest. From there stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy, and spectacular climbing to the chains. This is one of the few slightly contrived lines at the crag with Gold Rush so close at hand through much of the hard climbing.

It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.