Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06
Page Views: 8,826 total · 51/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details


Likely the most common 'first 5.12' for many at Trout. (though by no means the easiest tick...) Rattly fingers and liebacking leads to a cruxy transition into fingers and eventually a rest. From there stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy, and spectacular climbing to the chains. This is one of the few slightly contrived lines at the crag with Gold Rush so close at hand through much of the hard climbing.

It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.


The crack to the right of Gold Rush


Lots of thin gear up to BD .75. Small and medium stoppers protect the crux moves well if you can figure out how to hang out and place them.