Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,479 total · 27/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

Dig deep as the difficult tips start to this climb is only the first crux. Difficult to place gear if laybacking this part. Where your techniques transition will dictate the location of subsequent cruxes. Getting your first knee is a relief that doesn't seem to come soon enough. Transitioning from stacking to armbarring is tricky. This climb will work you through every size and manner of big jams.

Location

This is the gradually widening tips to offwidth/squeeze crack to the right of Wondertwins

Protection

A little bit of everything from micro cam to #9 Valley Giant. Can be done without the Valley Giant with big enough nuts. Exit right to a nice biner anchor.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
5.10b
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
5.10b
I'd hesitate to call the start tips. It's BD 0.4 or 0.5 sized which is fingers for most... Also you can walk a #6 to within about 10' of the finishing jug. It definitely feels heady to climb above it after giving yourself a walking top-rope for the majority of the route, but is by no means dangerous or really particularly bold as it's just below your feet when you latch the jug. Apr 21, 2011
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.11-
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.11-
I watched Jeff onsight this for the first known ascent. Super impressive climbing and modest of him to grade it 10+. Mar 2, 2015
Green Big Bro fit in the last 10'? Aug 22, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10+
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10+
Great route! A 6 was the biggest piece I had but 2 would have been nice. Not too bad above though. A shoulder length sling would have been a good idea for my last piece moving to the anchor. I found this one MUCH 4 me easier than Muffin Top. Nov 6, 2018