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Routes in The Main Wall

Adipose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aerie Interlude T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Alchemy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushwhacker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
California Weakender T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Chicken T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Compleat Angler, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dame El Oro T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Diminishing Returns T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fall Line T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Fingerlings T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire and Sage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fissuremen T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Clip T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fun Soup T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gas Chamber T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gateway T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Geologic Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gold Rush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guillotine, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip to Toe T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Horse With No Name T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
JR Token T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landing a Monster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Long March, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martian Chronicles, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May Fly, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Midas Touch T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Squiggles T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Muffin Top T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out Ridin' Fences T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of the Question T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pan Handlin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumphouse Park T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Purple Pinky Eater T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Question Air Box, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Redd Alert T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Redside T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Reservation Blues T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Rightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
River Wide, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocinante T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Shushaynsh T,TR 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Slim Pickens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Space Between, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Space Mission T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steelhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Straightway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Suzuki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time Bomb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
True Grit T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Two Step Left T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Step Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
U3 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U4 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wengerbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winter Sustenance T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wondertwins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,211 total, 27/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land Details

Description

Dig deep as the difficult tips start to this climb is only the first crux. Difficult to place gear if laybacking this part. Where your techniques transition will dictate the location of subsequent cruxes. Getting your first knee is a relief that doesn't seem to come soon enough. Transitioning from stacking to armbarring is tricky. This climb will work you through every size and manner of big jams.

Location

This is the gradually widening tips to offwidth/squeeze crack to the right of Wondertwins

Protection

A little bit of everything from micro cam to #9 Valley Giant. Can be done without the Valley Giant with big enough nuts. Exit right to a nice biner anchor.

Photos

Green Big Bro fit in the last 10'? Aug 22, 2017
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.11-
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.11-
I watched Jeff onsight this for the first known ascent. Super impressive climbing and modest of him to grade it 10+. Mar 2, 2015
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.10b
I'd hesitate to call the start tips. It's BD 0.4 or 0.5 sized which is fingers for most... Also you can walk a #6 to within about 10' of the finishing jug. It definitely feels heady to climb above it after giving yourself a walking top-rope for the majority of the route, but is by no means dangerous or really particularly bold as it's just below your feet when you latch the jug. Apr 21, 2011