Type: Trad
FA: Michael Holmes Oct 27th 2018
Page Views: 206 total · 43/month
Shared By: Michael Holmes on Oct 29, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details

Description

This is a new direct finish to the May Fly. The May Fly is one of the most classic hard lines at Trout and this variation is worth doing. You start Main Stream by climbing the sustained finger crack of the May Fly past the first mini crux, but instead of traversing left through the boulder problem, continue straight up the original crack as it seams out into almost nothing. Another ten feet of desperate face climbing takes you to the chains of Fissuremen. The run out up top is mitigated by placing a blue ball nut in the seam.

Location

Start on May Fly 

Protection

Bring plenty orange and yellow metolius, two blue metolius, a purple metolius and a blue ball nut. A few BD equivalents are handy also.

Photos

Michael Holmes
Eugene/ Bend
  5.13 PG13
Michael Holmes   Eugene/ Bend
  5.13 PG13
If you punch it to the chains from where the crack all but disappears without placing any ball nuts, you can take up to a 35 ft fall on a zero purple Metolius. I took the big fall twice, then decided to pre-place some gear. Doing the climb without gear up top gives the route an R rating. Someone stronger than me might be able to place on lead in the middle of the crux also. Oct 29, 2018
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.13 PG13
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.13 PG13
This thing is mega. I found a red c3 to be the perfect piece to place before casting off. Dec 3, 2018