|GPS:||44.801, -121.109 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||269,722 total · 1,987/month|
|Shared By:||Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
The position of the crag is spectacular and contributes to Trout's special vibe. It's possible to climb there without tape, but it sure feels nice to have something between your skin and the rock. In terms of gear, lots of people have complained about how many cams you need, but my experience is that you can get by with a double rack if you have a couple choice supplements for specific routes. Extra hand and finger sized pieces are definitely a good idea. In terms of new route potential, there are still a couple lines that haven't been done, but they're mostly thin and difficult.
Additionally, one of Trout's most outstanding characteristics is the sense of welcome, stewardship, and community that the people who climb there bring to it. Evidence of this can be found in the steel carabiners on the chains of the vast majority of the classic routes. These are meant for simplifying the top-rope cleaning process and were contributed by the generosity of others. Please respect that by leaving them in place, but feel free to clip directly to them when TRing. Additionally, there is a community bucket currently located under a boulder in the vicinity of the bench-like columns beneath Gold Rush. It usually contains a first aid kit and various odds and ends. You'll find another bucket next to it with wagbags in it. Feel free to take one should the need arise, but otherwise, please leave them in place for those actually in need.
It's worth noting that Trout's Main Wall requires exposed boulder-hopping to enjoy fully. People and/or dogs not comfortable walking and 3rd/4th classing in exposed situations probably won't enjoy visiting. Lastly, FA information is based on the guidebook but a degree of uncertainty exists for some of the moderates given the low-profile nature of the original Trout Creek climbers.
Possibly the most important thing to know about climbing at Trout is it's central access issue: golden eagles. There is a nest at the south end of the Main Wall and there are another three nests at the Cool Wall. The overhanging, broken columns adjacent to the nest (the columns that are bent over) are closed to climbing and the entire area is closed to all access. (hiking and climbing) from January 15th through August 31st. While no climbers have violated the closures by actually tying in when the crag is closed, the BLM has encountered climbers who hiked up to check the place out during the closure. It can't be stressed enough that you should not be hiking above the river during the closure period!
Classic Climbing Routes at Trout Creek
Days w Precip