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The Northern End Rock Climbing
Routes in The Northern End
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Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Craig Luebben Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Green Jeans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zippin' Your Shin Skin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Elevation: | 2,134 ft |
| GPS: |
44.803, -121.10752 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 55,804 total · 336/month |
| Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
The northern end is home to Trout's lower-angled, easier cracks. This is an excellent place to bring newcomers who aren't going to have fun on 5.10 cracks.
Getting There
Take the new trail that leaves the river after passing a bench on the right and after the river road jogs around a small berm. This trail was put in so that folks looking for 5.8-5.9 cracks wouldn't have to go the long way around and boulder hop across the whole main wall to and from the Northern End.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Northern End
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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All Photos Within The Northern End
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