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Routes in The Northern End

Anorexic Doughboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 7/09
Page Views: 1,079 total, 11/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land Details

Description

This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up.
The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.

Location

On the northern side of the crag. One corner left of a newer climb "Ol' Dirty Bastard" and one right of another new line "Buried Alive".

Protection

Cams through #2 BD with doubles of finger size, small stoppers for crux. Chain anchors.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Good to hear...props to Jeff for the addition...hopefully it'll encourage people to get on it! Oct 12, 2009
Bickle  
Jeff put an anchor on top of desperado so now you do not need to traverse to the talking it clean anchor. Oct 8, 2009
The line right of ODB is Talkin' It Clean (5.9+). This was the original Jeff Wenger line and has the anchor that both Desperado and ODB finish on. Pretty full-value "5.9"! Sep 16, 2009
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Thanks Phillip... noted and corrected...no disrespect intended to ODB...
Oh yeah, what's the name for the 5.9+ one right of Ol' Dirty? Sep 15, 2009
Nice work, Trevor!

Just one tiny correction: The route to the right is called "Ol' Dirty Bastard". May he rest in peace. WU-TANG FOREVER! Sep 13, 2009