All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Northern End

Desperado

Name: Desperado
Rating: 3.2

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in The Northern End

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bedside Manner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beer Float, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Craig Luebben Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Desperado T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Girls with Chim(n)ay T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gods Must Be Angry, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Great Googlie Moogli T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Lively Up Yourself T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mr. Green Jeans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ninjinski T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Northern End \| 7791, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Northern Throne, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ol' Dirty Bastard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Plumbline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rodeo Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Route 66 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Salad Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shasta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sleepy Hallow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	T-Handles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Talkin' It Clean T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Underground Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Moderate T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Usual Suspects T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Where's Noah Vibbert T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Wiggle Room, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zippin' Your Shin Skin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	44.803, -121.10752
FA:	Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 7/09
Page Views:	2,450 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure/Private Land Boundaries Details

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up.
The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.