Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 7/09
Page Views: 1,166 total · 10/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure ::: No top access - private land Details


This was one of the northern end's final "potential" lines listed in the last edition of Wenger's guide. The neighboring lines to the right and left had also been "potential" but were also plucked recently. In keeping with the area's tradition, this was led on-sight ground up.
The bottom half of the pitch is great 5.9 hands and fingers to a small shelf on the column face to the left. From there, make progressively harder moves up the tightening fingercrack until it pinches down for a bit, forcing some creative stemming and crimping to a small upper shelf. Continue a short ways on good fingers to a set of anchors recently installed by Jeff Wenger. A great outing-harder than most of the north side climbs and pretty lichen-free.


On the northern side of the crag. One corner left of a newer climb "Ol' Dirty Bastard" and one right of another new line "Buried Alive".


Cams through #2 BD with doubles of finger size, small stoppers for crux. Chain anchors.


Nice work, Trevor!

Just one tiny correction: The route to the right is called "Ol' Dirty Bastard". May he rest in peace. WU-TANG FOREVER! Sep 13, 2009
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
Thanks Phillip... noted and corrected...no disrespect intended to ODB...
Oh yeah, what's the name for the 5.9+ one right of Ol' Dirty? Sep 15, 2009
The line right of ODB is Talkin' It Clean (5.9+). This was the original Jeff Wenger line and has the anchor that both Desperado and ODB finish on. Pretty full-value "5.9"! Sep 16, 2009
Jeff put an anchor on top of desperado so now you do not need to traverse to the talking it clean anchor. Oct 8, 2009
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
Good to hear...props to Jeff for the addition...hopefully it'll encourage people to get on it! Oct 12, 2009