Elevation: 5,314 ft
GPS: 44.04209, -120.29223
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Anonymous on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Welcome

Welcome to Oregon! Not quite as sunny and granitic as its southerly neighbor, nor as glaciated and mountainous as its northerly one, this state still holds its own must-visit destination: the world-famous Smith Rock.

The golden tuff is actually an exception to the otherwise overwhelming majority of basalt crags. Besides the lower gorge, the best crack climbing in the state is without a doubt Trout Creek. Metropolitan crags include Broughton Bluff, Madrone Wall, and Carver, not to mention those on the Washington side. The Mt. Hood National Forest is also teeming with crags, including French's Dome and Klinger Spring. If you're looking for a big wall, Wolf Rock has what you're looking for. And any peak-bagger's journey would be incomplete without a slog up the south side of Mt. Hood.

There are numerous adventure crags scattered all over the state, from the secluded Rattlesnake in the southwest to the expansive Spring Mountain in the northeast. Get out there and check them out!

Area Breakdown

All crags have been sorted into areas by region. These are fairly intuitive and hopefully make finding crags easier.

Central Oregon - east of the mountains, centered around Redmond
Smith Rock, Trout Creek, Meadow Camp, Cougar Buttress, The Depot, Eagle Rock, etc.

Mt Hood National Forest - east of Portland, south of the Columbia Gorge
French's Dome, Klinger Spring, Lost Lake Boulders, Bulo Point, Area 51, Salmon River Slab, etc.

Northeast Oregon - borders Idaho, centered on La Grande
Spring Mountain, Fiddler's Hell, Leslie Gulch, Burnt River Canyon, etc.

Northwest Coast - coastal bouldering, centered on Nehalem
Cannon Beach

Oregon Volcanoes - the line of fire from Hood to Thielsen
Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Thielsen, etc.

Portland & The Gorge - metropolitan area and the Columbia Gorge, excluding Washington crags like Ozone and Beacon Rock
Broughton Bluff, Carver Cliff, Viento Wall, Rocky Butte, Madrone Wall, etc.

Southwest Oregon - borders California, centered on Roseburg
The Honeycombs, Rattlesnake, The Callahans, Acker Rock, Terra Nova, Emigrant Lake, etc.

Willamette Valley - from Salem to Cottage Grove including the National Forest
Eagles Rest, The Garden, Wolf Rock, Flagstone, Lookout Point, Moolack, Skinner Butte, etc.

4,903 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Oregon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Oregon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 356
Pioneer Route
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 138
Monkey Off My Back
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 249
Gold Rush
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 358
Zion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 93
Wondertwins
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 89
The Space Between
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 433
Moons of Pluto
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 135
Wartley's Revenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 201
Pure Palm
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 300
Vomit Launch
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 126
Dreamin'
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 100
Dracula
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 256
Heinous Cling Start
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 107
Heinous Cling (Full)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 144
Chain Reaction
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pioneer Route Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 356
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Monkey Off My Back Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 138
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Gold Rush Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
 249
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Zion Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall
 358
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Wondertwins Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
 93
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Space Between Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
 89
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Moons of Pluto Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall
 433
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wartley's Revenge Central Oregon > … > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…
 135
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pure Palm Central Oregon > … > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall
 201
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vomit Launch Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully
 300
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dreamin' Central Oregon > … > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…
 126
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall
 100
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heinous Cling Start Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 256
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heinous Cling (Full) Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 107
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Chain Reaction Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 144
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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