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Areas in Oregon

Central Oregon 493 / 612 / 103 / 73 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 1183
Mt. Hood 89 / 141 / 7 / 58 / 12 / 0 / 6 / 16 / 299
Northeast Oregon 93 / 157 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 21 / 239
Oregon Volcanoes 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 2 / 18 / 26
Portland & The Gorge 140 / 136 / 47 / 69 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 354
Southwest Oregon 19 / 128 / 33 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 165
Willamette Valley 60 / 90 / 20 / 52 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 3 / 206
Elevation: 5,314 ft
GPS: 44.042, -120.292 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Welcome

Welcome to Oregon! Not quite as sunny and granitic as its southerly neighbor, nor as glaciated and mountainous as its northerly one, this state still holds its own must-visit destination: the world-famous Smith Rock.

The golden tuff is actually an exception to the otherwise overwhelming majority of basalt crags. Besides the lower gorge, the best crack climbing in the state is without a doubt Trout Creek. Metropolitan crags include Broughton Bluff and Carver, not to mention those on the Washington side. If you're looking for a big wall, Wolf Rock has what you're looking for. And any peak-bagger's journey would be incomplete without a slog up the south side of Mt. Hood.

There are numerous adventure crags scattered all over the state, from the secluded Rattlesnake in the southwest to the expansive Spring Mountain in the northeast. Get out there and check them out!

Area Breakdown

All crags have been sorted into areas by region. These are fairly intuitive and hopefully make finding crags easier.

Central Oregon - east of the mountains, centered around Redmond
Smith Rock, Trout Creek, The Badlands, Power Lines, Steins Pillar, Shepards Tower, Central Oregon Bouldering

Mt Hood - National Forest and the crags therein
Mt. Hood, French's Dome, Bulo Point, Klinger Springs, Lost Lake Boulders, Coethedral, Pete's Pile, Salmon River Slab, Enola Hill, Ramona Creek Crag, Illumination Rock, Area 51

Northeast Oregon - borders Idaho, centered on La Grande
Spring Mountain, Fiddler's Hell, High Valley, Burnt River Canyon, Anthony Lakes, Wallowa Mountains, Pine Creek

Oregon Volcanoes - the line of fire from Jefferson to Thielsen
Goat Peak, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Three Sisters

Portland & The Gorge - metropolitan area and the Columbia
Broughton Bluff, Carver, Rocky Butte, Rat Cave, Pike Boulders, Rooster Rock

Southwest Oregon - borders California, centered on Medford
Rattlesnake, The Callahans, Greensprings, Williamson River Cliffs, Pilot Rock, Emigrant Lake, Rabbit Ears

Willamette Valley - from Salem to Cottage Grove including the National Forest
Flagstone, Wolf Rock, The Garden, Moolack, Hills Creek Spires, Skinner Butte, Harlen Rock Quarry, Canyon Creek, Mary's Peak

Climbing gyms in Oregon

2,472 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oregon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
 247
Pioneer Route
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
 127
West Face Variation
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 154
Gold Rush
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 240
Zebra Zion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 127
Bad Finger
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
JR Token
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 253
Moons of Pluto
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
Wartley's Revenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
Pure Palm
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 215
Toxic
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 180
Vomit Launch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 80
Monkey Space
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 117
Heinous Cling Start
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 87
Heinous Cling
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 82
Chain Reaction
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pioneer Route Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 247
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
West Face Variation Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 127
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Gold Rush Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
 154
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Zebra Zion Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall
 240
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Bad Finger Central Oregon > … > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall
 127
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
JR Token Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall
 107
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Moons of Pluto Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (q) Mesa Verde Wall
 253
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wartley's Revenge Central Oregon > … > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pure Palm Central Oregon > … > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Toxic Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (d) Aggro Gully
 215
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vomit Launch Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (f) Cocaine Gully
 180
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Monkey Space Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 80
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Heinous Cling Start Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 117
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heinous Cling Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 87
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Chain Reaction Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals
 82
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Oregon »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Don't forget that there is a fee now for Beacon Rock. $10 per day or a $30 for an annual pass that is good for all Wash. State Parks. Jul 28, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Welcome to Oregon Alpine Glower. The secret area thing cracks me up too, even though the Trout's have been here for a century. I posted a swimming hole for ya. The Elk River is a few miles north of Port Orford. Drive at least 6 miles up the river before the good holes begin appearing. There's climbing along the coast too, but the rock and anchors are usually horrible. Shoot me an email about anywhere and I'll help you spill the beans on the Proj. Dec 19, 2011
Mr. Holmes
Cascade West
Mr. Holmes   Cascade West
A quick update regarding rumors surrounding the Rat Cave closure:

I spoke with USFS and yes,it is on their radar... however:

1) No, the crag is not closed to recreational use (this includes climbing); Access is still open.

2) USFS interaction has and will stem priamarily from concerns surrounding new route development (bolting/fixed anchors) and overall human impact.
They will be monitoring this site in the months/seasons to come!

3) The local USFS office is aware of the national MOU with the Access Fund and will connect with me directly regarding any future decisions or concerns though they are currently pleased with the " level of support and collaboration" from the Access Fund, as well as, the local climbing community.

This said, If you climb at the Rat Cave PLEASE KEEP A LOW PROFILE. If you don't.. then I hear "The Gullies" are splendid this time of year! Apr 5, 2012
pacowen  
Anyone ever go up to Lowell crag outside of Eugene.20 or so routes up there 5-10 and harder Jun 3, 2013
Sarah Wolfe
Eugene, OR
Sarah Wolfe   Eugene, OR
Oregon climbers,

I've started Oregon Climbs, a monthly e-news focused on outdoor climbing throughout Oregon, to bring together information from a variety of other already-existent sources, as well as people throughout the OR climbing community, to create a cohesive and inclusive resource for all things climbing in OR.


Oregon Climbs
is sent out at the end of each month and includes:
- Wrap up of the previous month
- Preview of the coming month (date-specific events and programs)
- Alerts & FYI's (closures, openings, new routes, etc.)
- Local Yokel (city-specific outdoor climbing opportunities)
- Out of Oregon (nat'l climbing festivals or conferences)

If you are interested in joining my email list, please send an email to OregonClimbs@mail.com and put "Add me!" in the subject line.

Thanks so much!
Sarah Wolfe
Oregon Climbs
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