Elevation: 3,008 ft
GPS: 44.37, -121.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,253 total · 565/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

The Red Wall has some of Smith's best multipitch moderates as well as a few classic tuft crimpfests. It is east facing and gets morning sun. The rock quality is generally good for Smith.

Getting There

To approach cross the bridge and follow the trail up and right (north) until you get to the reddish colored rock. Allow 30 minutes from the car.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 240
Super Slab
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 190
Moscow
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Peking
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
Commie Pinkos
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 125
Papillion
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 189
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitc…
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 140
Dirty Pinkos
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 49
Orgasmophoria
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 144
Dances with Clams
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 101
Lets Face It
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Animal Farm
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 80
Phantasmagoria
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Bay of Pigs
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Ride The Lightning
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 58
Gulag Archipelago
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Slab
 240
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Moscow
 190
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Peking
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Commie Pinkos
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Papillion
 125
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half…
 189
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Dirty Pinkos
 140
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Orgasmophoria
 49
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Dances with Clams
 144
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Lets Face It
 101
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Animal Farm
 41
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Phantasmagoria
 80
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bay of Pigs
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Ride The Lightning
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gulag Archipelago
 58
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Red Wall »

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Would totally recommend wearing a helmet in this area. Or always when standing under a route. In 2 days I saw 2 separate rock fall incidents last weekene, 1 of which would have absolutely killed a woman and an man with his dog if not for missing by a few feet. All melon sized rock. May 30, 2014
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
The Red Wall is a great summer crag with a quick approach, great rock and position, and shade from early afternoon on.

Rappel beta for any routes topping out the left side of the wall (Titanium Jag, Orgasmagoria, Bay of Pigs, Stroke of Brilliance, Super Slab, Panama Red, Amphetamine Grip):

Walk to the right side of the ledge on top of the wall to rappel anchors next to a cave with a cairn at head height.

2 x 70m ropes: Rap straight the way to the ground. Be sure to get away from the wall at the bottom and do a good hard pull.

2 x 60m ropes: Rap 2 ropes to the big ledge atop Super Slab's first pitch. There are a few different sets of rap rings, rappel one rope to the ground on either one.

1 x 70m rope: Make a short 30' rap and swing right to another anchor at a stance(P2 anchor for Dirty Pinkos) Two more raps to the ground.

1 x 60m rope: Maybe possible same as for 70m with a short easy-ish downclimb above the big ledge. Aug 11, 2017