Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: Dean Fry and JeffThomas 11/72
Page Views: 21,419 total · 136/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


333 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the most classic trad lines at Smith. The crux is in the first 20ft but many a climber has been shut down up high going for the chains. It protects well at any point and has classic stemming and finger locks. Climb the corner to anchors on the face.

There is a decent second pitch but most make it a one pitch endeavor.

Protection

wires, cams to 3 inches

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Fun climbing up to the first anchors. A well protected gear climb for the budding trad climber. The crack takes stoppers really well. Jun 11, 2008
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.9
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.9
Definitely easy to protect, with good stances to place gear. Would be a good beginners Dihedral. Oct 15, 2008
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
The pro was good, but so was the pump up top! It's no gimme. Mar 30, 2009
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
 
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
 
this may be the best 5.9 at smith. super fun climb. good flow, good options. May 24, 2009
cerickson
Portland, OR
  5.9
cerickson   Portland, OR
  5.9
This is probably one of the best 5.9 gear pitches I've ever done - anywhere. A must do. Aug 30, 2010
K Baumgartner
  5.9+
K Baumgartner  
  5.9+
My first 9 trad lead. Business time is definitely right off the ground. Got a nice rest about 30-40 feet up. Option of using left hand crack towards the top helps reduce the pump factor. Aug 4, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9
Awesome, takes cams well. Aug 16, 2012
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.9
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.9
Probably my favorite .9 trad route at Smith. I thought the last 20' were harder than the first 20'. All in all takes good pro. May 4, 2015
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.9
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.9
My favorite 5.9 at Smith. The "crux" comes early, but the pumpy upper moves keep the challenge coming all the way to the top. The second pitch is not as good but well worth doing. Jun 17, 2015
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
Beat 5.9 at smith? Probably. Best 5.9 crack climb at smith? Definitely. Wear a helmet though if you aren't very aware. I watched a guy slam the top of his head into the flake and bloody it pretty good one time. Pay attention and you will be fine. Jul 18, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
I found the first 20' of this 5.9 harder than the 10a pitches of Zebra and Trezlar - mainly due to lack of good stances for placing protection. Also, the crack is very polished, so jams that would be easy elsewhere at Smith were quite strenuous. Jun 28, 2016
tsherry
Portland, OR
  5.9
tsherry   Portland, OR
  5.9
A good stout 5.9. Can be a little daunting for anyone new to trad. Focus on finding the comfortable stances to place pro. Don't spook and waste energy messing around with gear in a bad spot. Oct 3, 2016
ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
 
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
 
A pair of birds were flying in and out of the crack just right of the P1 anchor. They may have been swifts, or martins, or swallows...I'm not a biologist. There may or may not be a nest in the crack. May 9, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
My favorite trad climb at Smith so far. The finger-locks are amazing, as are the opportunities for putting in bomber nuts.

Bonus: On a sunny day, when the rest of the crag is in full sun, this route is shady and cool. Sep 25, 2017
Adam Macaluso
North Conway, NH
Adam Macaluso   North Conway, NH
this takes a ridiculous amount of stoppers. Also it says "finger locks" in the description, but honestly i got like a bunch of solid hand jams in it. def bring a red and yellow camalot. Oct 11, 2018
NatejWeber
Vancouver, WA
  5.9+
NatejWeber   Vancouver, WA
  5.9+
This is a fantastic crack climb that will really put your stemming ability to test. The upper portion is tricky but as long as you keep stemming, you’re golden. The left crack is solid for jams and good holds. The start of this can seem precarious, but I found it’s best to pop up on a stem and protect in the crack created by the block. Then it’s a little sequence of finding some knobs on the left face, and working your feet up steadily so you can land good hand jams above. Seems worse than it is.

I probably took too much gear, but doubles to red. one yellow, and your nuts will get the job done. Leave the alpine draws and use sport draws for the nuts and few extensions you nees to make. Nov 3, 2018