Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: Dean Fry and JeffThomas 11/72
Page Views: 18,838 total, 131/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


285 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the most classic trad lines at Smith. The crux is in the first 20ft but many a climber has been shut down up high going for the chains. It protects well at any point and has classic stemming and finger locks. Climb the corner to anchors on the face.

There is a decent second pitch but most make it a one pitch endeavor.

Protection

wires, cams to 3 inches
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9
My favorite trad climb at Smith so far. The finger-locks are amazing, as are the opportunities for putting in bomber nuts.

Bonus: On a sunny day, when the rest of the crag is in full sun, this route is shady and cool. Sep 25, 2017
ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
 
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
 
A pair of birds were flying in and out of the crack just right of the P1 anchor. They may have been swifts, or martins, or swallows...I'm not a biologist. There may or may not be a nest in the crack. May 9, 2017
tsherry
Portland, OR
  5.9
tsherry   Portland, OR
  5.9
A good stout 5.9. Can be a little daunting for anyone new to trad. Focus on finding the comfortable stances to place pro. Don't spook and waste energy messing around with gear in a bad spot. Oct 3, 2016
I found the first 20' of this 5.9 harder than the 10a pitches of Zebra and Trezlar - mainly due to lack of good stances for placing protection. Also, the crack is very polished, so jams that would be easy elsewhere at Smith were quite strenuous. Jun 28, 2016
Brian Martin
Bend, OR
 
Brian Martin   Bend, OR
 
Beat 5.9 at smith? Probably. Best 5.9 crack climb at smith? Definitely. Wear a helmet though if you aren't very aware. I watched a guy slam the top of his head into the flake and bloody it pretty good one time. Pay attention and you will be fine. Jul 18, 2015
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.9
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.9
My favorite 5.9 at Smith. The "crux" comes early, but the pumpy upper moves keep the challenge coming all the way to the top. The second pitch is not as good but well worth doing. Jun 17, 2015
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.9
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.9
Probably my favorite .9 trad route at Smith. I thought the last 20' were harder than the first 20'. All in all takes good pro. May 4, 2015
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9
Awesome, takes cams well. Aug 16, 2012
K Baumgartner
  5.9+
K Baumgartner  
  5.9+
My first 9 trad lead. Business time is definitely right off the ground. Got a nice rest about 30-40 feet up. Option of using left hand crack towards the top helps reduce the pump factor. Aug 4, 2012
cerickson
Portland, OR
  5.9
cerickson   Portland, OR
  5.9
This is probably one of the best 5.9 gear pitches I've ever done - anywhere. A must do. Aug 30, 2010
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
 
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
 
this may be the best 5.9 at smith. super fun climb. good flow, good options. May 24, 2009
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
The pro was good, but so was the pump up top! It's no gimme. Mar 30, 2009
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.9
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.9
Definitely easy to protect, with good stances to place gear. Would be a good beginners Dihedral. Oct 15, 2008
Fun climbing up to the first anchors. A well protected gear climb for the budding trad climber. The crack takes stoppers really well. Jun 11, 2008