Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock 1966, FFA: Dean Fry, Steve Lyford 10/73
Page Views: 14,624 total · 93/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


163 Opinions

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Description

This is the "fishhook" shaped crack you see as you're hiking towards The Dihedrals area. It is on the vertical wall immediately left of a low angle narrow ramp (ramp is the 1st pitch of Cinamon Slab route, 5.6).

The route has some short, not terribly thought-provoking, though kind of strenuous climbing. And it is great fun! Jam the crack which fluctuates from #3 to #1 Camalot size (hands to thin hands). There are some face holds to take advantage of as well if you prefer. At the top, the crack turns right and traverses for about 6 feet. Step right into a deep chimney and downclimb 6 feet to bolted anchor inside chimney.

Protection

Cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot (doubles from #1 to #3). A #0.5 Camalot (or red Alien) works well in protecting the downclimb inside chimney.
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab. Jan 26, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Great line, but I didn't find the climbing as enjoyable as the cracks of the Lower Gorge. But fun stuff, nonetheless. Camalots work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make Camalots prone to walk, where hexes would be bomber. Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and downclimb to the chains! Oct 22, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are, as it is, make sure the person cleaning the route is fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high. Jun 26, 2010
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
 
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
 
Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun. Aug 2, 2010
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me! May 29, 2012
There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.


Chad Feb 4, 2013
Tatsu Ota
Bellingham, WA
Tatsu Ota   Bellingham, WA
Agreed with Chad. Hexes and nuts work very well on this climb Nov 30, 2014
EWRAD
boise, Idaho
EWRAD   boise, Idaho
This is a great climb minus the anchors setup. As stated by previous comments, someone seconding this climb has to traverse and down climb with fall potential. .. Not sure why they didn't put the anchors above the end of the climb? Sep 28, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
Too bad about the anchor situation. A possible factor 2 on the anchor of a 1 pitch moderate at a sport crag doesn't seem necessary, but I certainly don't expect anyone will touch it given that it seems to have been that way since '66. Mar 20, 2016
Very pumpy near the top. It seems to me that you should bump all your 2's and 3's, and/or save them for the upper section which is quite pumpy. You don't get a break at the traverse either!

Beware the anchor situation as others have described it! Jun 23, 2016
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
Neat crack climb. Good comments above regarding gear, esp. hexes. The anchor situation raises the question of whether a bolt replacement program such as at Smith should replace badly located bolts or provide a new anchor. Nov 9, 2016
pdxuller  
 
I am of the opinion that the anchor placement adds to the character of the route and should not be changed. Mar 14, 2017
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
 
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
 
I agree. The climb would lose its je ne sais quoi if you moved the anchors. It's fun to turn that corner and have to puzzle out what to do. If you don't spray beta, it also makes a good laugh for those on the ground. Oct 17, 2017