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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock 1966, FFA: Dean Fry, Steve Lyford 10/73
Page Views: 13,100 total, 91/month
Shared By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the "fishhook" shaped crack you see as you're hiking towards The Dihedrals area. It is on the vertical wall immediately left of a low angle narrow ramp (ramp is the 1st pitch of Cinamon Slab route, 5.6).

The route has some short, not terribly thought-provoking, though kind of strenuous climbing. And it is great fun! Jam the crack which fluctuates from #3 to #1 Camalot size (hands to thin hands). There are some face holds to take advantage of as well if you prefer. At the top, the crack turns right and traverses for about 6 feet. Step right into a deep chimney and downclimb 6 feet to bolted anchor inside chimney.

Protection

Cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot (doubles from #1 to #3). A #0.5 Camalot (or red Alien) works well in protecting the downclimb inside chimney.
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
 
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
 
I agree. The climb would lose its je ne sais quoi if you moved the anchors. It's fun to turn that corner and have to puzzle out what to do. If you don't spray beta, it also makes a good laugh for those on the ground. Oct 17, 2017
pdxuller  
 
I am of the opinion that the anchor placement adds to the character of the route and should not be changed. Mar 14, 2017
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
Neat crack climb. Good comments above regarding gear, esp. hexes. The anchor situation raises the question of whether a bolt replacement program such as at Smith should replace badly located bolts or provide a new anchor. Nov 9, 2016
Very pumpy near the top. It seems to me that you should bump all your 2's and 3's, and/or save them for the upper section which is quite pumpy. You don't get a break at the traverse either!

Beware the anchor situation as others have described it! Jun 23, 2016
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
Too bad about the anchor situation. A possible factor 2 on the anchor of a 1 pitch moderate at a sport crag doesn't seem necessary, but I certainly don't expect anyone will touch it given that it seems to have been that way since '66. Mar 20, 2016
EWRAD
boise, Idaho
EWRAD   boise, Idaho
This is a great climb minus the anchors setup. As stated by previous comments, someone seconding this climb has to traverse and down climb with fall potential. .. Not sure why they didn't put the anchors above the end of the climb? Sep 28, 2015
Tatsu Ota
Bellingham, WA
Tatsu Ota   Bellingham, WA
Agreed with Chad. Hexes and nuts work very well on this climb Nov 30, 2014
There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.


Chad Feb 4, 2013
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me! May 29, 2012
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
 
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
 
Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun. Aug 2, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are, as it is, make sure the person cleaning the route is fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high. Jun 26, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Great line, but I didn't find the climbing as enjoyable as the cracks of the Lower Gorge. But fun stuff, nonetheless. Camalots work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make Camalots prone to walk, where hexes would be bomber. Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and downclimb to the chains! Oct 22, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab. Jan 26, 2006