Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Alan Watts |
Page Views: | 7,159 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 17, 2008 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Last Waltz features thin balancy moves and blind reaches. While not extremely pumpy it remains technically demanding to the chains.
Start by suffering through thin 5.11 slab moves past the first three bolts of Moondance. No this is not the crux so try to hide the pain in your eyes as you make it past a series of small sharp edges. Next make a couple traverse moves to the fourth bolt. From here move into the roof, clip a long sling and get a good stemming rest. With some effort exit the roof out right using some insecure fin holds and a couple of small edges. This is an insecure awkward crux, but it is rewarding nonetheless.
It just keeps getting better. Once around the roof take a good shake then enter the most sequential section of the arête. From here pinch/sidepull the arête and highstep your way through continuous technical arête climbing. The right side of the arête features some small positive edges that may be hard to see. The arête is probably around 12a and it is tons of fun if you have a decent idea of where the good holds are.
If you like death missions try the severely runout direct start to the route. Sorry there is no extra credit for putting your life on the line. The grade remains 12c regardless of where you start.
Start by suffering through thin 5.11 slab moves past the first three bolts of Moondance. No this is not the crux so try to hide the pain in your eyes as you make it past a series of small sharp edges. Next make a couple traverse moves to the fourth bolt. From here move into the roof, clip a long sling and get a good stemming rest. With some effort exit the roof out right using some insecure fin holds and a couple of small edges. This is an insecure awkward crux, but it is rewarding nonetheless.
It just keeps getting better. Once around the roof take a good shake then enter the most sequential section of the arête. From here pinch/sidepull the arête and highstep your way through continuous technical arête climbing. The right side of the arête features some small positive edges that may be hard to see. The arête is probably around 12a and it is tons of fun if you have a decent idea of where the good holds are.
If you like death missions try the severely runout direct start to the route. Sorry there is no extra credit for putting your life on the line. The grade remains 12c regardless of where you start.
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