Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 4,163 total · 33/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Last Waltz features thin balancy moves and blind reaches. While not extremely pumpy it remains technically demanding to the chains.

Start by suffering through thin 5.11 slab moves past the first three bolts of Moondance. No this is not the crux so try to hide the pain in your eyes as you make it past a series of small sharp edges. Next make a couple traverse moves to the fourth bolt. From here move into the roof, clip a long sling and get a good stemming rest. With some effort exit the roof out right using some insecure “fin” holds and a couple of small edges. This is an insecure awkward crux, but it is rewarding nonetheless.

It just keeps getting better. Once around the roof take a good shake then enter the most sequential section of the arête. From here pinch/sidepull the arête and highstep your way through continuous technical arête climbing. The right side of the arête features some small positive edges that may be hard to see. The arête is probably around 12a and it is tons of fun if you have a decent idea of where the good holds are.

If you like death missions try the severely runout direct start to the route. Sorry there is no extra credit for putting your life on the line. The grade remains 12c regardless of where you start.

Location

Shares first three bolts with Moondance. Obvious arete left of To Bolt Or Not To Be

Protection

11 bolts plus chain anchors. Fixed draws starting at fifth bolt

Photos

JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
I sent this sandbag right after a body shot on a Western College coeds stomach. Spring Break! Mar 23, 2012
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I'm sure you were feeling pretty spunky after that...
or perhaps you were fueled by a Malibu Rum type body shot?... Mar 26, 2012
Matt Sedor
portland, or
Matt Sedor   portland, or
Aw man am I lame. I sent sans shot. Very poor style on my part. Mar 29, 2012
slim    
i think peter just wants to know what his name was.... Feb 14, 2014