Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
|Type:||Sport, 95 ft (29 m)|
|FA:||JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)|
|Page Views:||4,341 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.
Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.
This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!