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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 2,601 total, 20/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!

Location

On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.

Protection

Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.

Photos

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Matt Solomon
Central Point, OR
  5.12+
Matt Solomon   Central Point, OR
  5.12+
Awesome line, well worth the effort. The cruxes are stacked atop each other as mentioned and quite engaging. Mar 9, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly. Jan 15, 2017
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.12c
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.12c
Awesome route with perplexing but memorable cruxes. Recommend a long draw pre-placed on the 4th bolt so you can clip before committing to a couple moves getting established above the roof, otherwise you’ll prbly clip it shoulder level when the 3rd bolt looks a mile below you and way off to the side Jul 27, 2016
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it. Oct 15, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days. Apr 2, 2007