Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 3,018 total · 21/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!

Location

On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.

Protection

Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days. Apr 2, 2007
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it. Oct 15, 2008
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.12c
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
  5.12c
Awesome route with perplexing but memorable cruxes. Recommend a long draw pre-placed on the 4th bolt so you can clip before committing to a couple moves getting established above the roof, otherwise you’ll prbly clip it shoulder level when the 3rd bolt looks a mile below you and way off to the side Jul 27, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly. Jan 15, 2017
Matt Solomon
Central Point, OR
  5.12+
Matt Solomon   Central Point, OR
  5.12+
Awesome line, well worth the effort. The cruxes are stacked atop each other as mentioned and quite engaging. Mar 9, 2017
John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
 
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
 
A true gem of a climb that is hidden in plain sight. Technical vertical climbing at it's finest. Feels 12c with good footwork. Most people disagree with me on the grade. Sep 24, 2018