Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 3,018 total · 21/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!


On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.


Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.


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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days. Apr 2, 2007
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it. Oct 15, 2008
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
Chuck Becker   Portland, OR
Awesome route with perplexing but memorable cruxes. Recommend a long draw pre-placed on the 4th bolt so you can clip before committing to a couple moves getting established above the roof, otherwise you’ll prbly clip it shoulder level when the 3rd bolt looks a mile below you and way off to the side Jul 27, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
A good lesson in standing on your feet. It's not too bad w/o the long draw. It's certainly a long way down, but you're on good holds, so it's unlikely that you'll blow it. Crux felt like V4 to a good shake to V5. The top is pretty easy, but hard to read and the rock gets slightly crumbly. Jan 15, 2017
Matt Solomon
Central Point, OR
Matt Solomon   Central Point, OR
Awesome line, well worth the effort. The cruxes are stacked atop each other as mentioned and quite engaging. Mar 9, 2017
John Ericson
A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
John Ericson   A Toyota Prius Luxury Mobil…
A true gem of a climb that is hidden in plain sight. Technical vertical climbing at it's finest. Feels 12c with good footwork. Most people disagree with me on the grade. Sep 24, 2018