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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,510 total, 82/month
Shared By: Jeff Beckstrand on May 2, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Fantastic and easy face climbing. First pitch follows the pillar face to a bolted anchor. Second pitch moves down and right off the pillar and onto the adjacent face (same as for Bookworm) for more face climbing. Can be done in one pitch (bring slings for the anchor and consider skipping the first bolt of the second pitch.) Descend on two rope rappel or two raps.

Protection

lots of quickdraws, some slings if running it in one pitch.
Seth Daniels  
 
We had two kids, 8 and 10, try to lead this over the weekend. Both have lead experience, but the gap between bolt 2 and 3 was far enough that neither could make the transition. There's a "5 foot" or so thin area that was too far for them to bridge.

Otherwise, fun knobby route. Oct 2, 2017
Gunnar Johnson
Hanover, NH
 
Gunnar Johnson   Hanover, NH
 
Super fun! Combined both pitches in one shot then rappelled 2x on a single 60m. Be sure to bring a long sling if you plan on clipping the anchor about the 2nd pitch. May 17, 2017
Climbed this today. Right bolt on the second pitch anchor is still loose, and has yet to be replaced. Be very careful. Apr 1, 2017
PortlandRob  
 
Climbed this today (March 26, 2016). Right bolt of second pitch anxhor was loose - pretty sketchy rappel. The hanger spins, the bolt rotates in the rock, and the bolt can be wiggled side to side. Left bolt was solid. Hopefully someone will replace soon. Mar 26, 2016
Right side rap ring has a worn groove into it. Does not look very safe. Jun 8, 2015
Sol Cantwell
  5.7
Sol Cantwell  
  5.7
Great nubbins and weird crystals to hold onto. This makes a good route for your friend to climb and take pictures of your grovel up Chain Reaction. Apr 19, 2015
Todd99  
Pretty straight forward and fun. Second pitch is pretty much more of the same. May 13, 2011
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Great climb for new multi pitch climbers, just can't get any better! Feb 23, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Fun and safe. What else do you need? Jul 11, 2010
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Combined both pitches and had horrible rope drag, even with long slings it would be bad. Fun climb though. Jun 16, 2010