Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomas, Ken Currens 1977
Page Views: 11,471 total · 89/month
Shared By: Jeff Beckstrand on May 2, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


296 Opinions

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Description

Fantastic and easy face climbing. First pitch follows the pillar face to a bolted anchor. Second pitch moves down and right off the pillar and onto the adjacent face (same as for Bookworm) for more face climbing. Can be done in one pitch (bring slings for the anchor and consider skipping the first bolt of the second pitch.) Descend on two rope rappel or two raps.

Protection

lots of quickdraws, some slings if running it in one pitch.
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Combined both pitches and had horrible rope drag, even with long slings it would be bad. Fun climb though. Jun 16, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Fun and safe. What else do you need? Jul 11, 2010
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Great climb for new multi pitch climbers, just can't get any better! Feb 23, 2011
Todd99  
Pretty straight forward and fun. Second pitch is pretty much more of the same. May 13, 2011
Sol Cantwell
  5.7
Sol Cantwell  
  5.7
Great nubbins and weird crystals to hold onto. This makes a good route for your friend to climb and take pictures of your grovel up Chain Reaction. Apr 19, 2015
Right side rap ring has a worn groove into it. Does not look very safe. Jun 8, 2015
PortlandRob  
 
Climbed this today (March 26, 2016). Right bolt of second pitch anxhor was loose - pretty sketchy rappel. The hanger spins, the bolt rotates in the rock, and the bolt can be wiggled side to side. Left bolt was solid. Hopefully someone will replace soon. Mar 26, 2016
Climbed this today. Right bolt on the second pitch anchor is still loose, and has yet to be replaced. Be very careful. Apr 1, 2017
Gunnar Johnson
Hanover, NH
 
Gunnar Johnson   Hanover, NH
 
Super fun! Combined both pitches in one shot then rappelled 2x on a single 60m. Be sure to bring a long sling if you plan on clipping the anchor about the 2nd pitch. May 17, 2017
Seth Daniels
Portland, OR
 
Seth Daniels   Portland, OR
 
We had two kids, 8 and 10, try to lead this over the weekend. Both have lead experience, but the gap between bolt 2 and 3 was far enough that neither could make the transition. There's a "5 foot" or so thin area that was too far for them to bridge.

Otherwise, fun knobby route. Oct 2, 2017