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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Alan Watts, February 1983
Page Views: 28,670 total, 198/month
Shared By: jonah on Jan 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

You can't miss this arete, just left of Darkness At Noon and Heinous Cling. One of the most fun and photogenic routes at Smith (and maybe the whole U.S.). Four bolts lead up the arete, with funky pinching, scumming, crimping and pocket pulling to get through the technical crux between the second and third bolts. The redpoint crux is the sports action throw over the roof at the top, though.

Protection

Bolts with anchors at the top.
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.12c
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.12c
Possibly my favorite route at Smith. Short and quick but super fun movement under an awesome feature!! Plus it is on the Clif Bar...
I thought the match after the full extension move was the crux. You can make the move to the lip feel easier by standing up more. The final dyno after the lip is the final link to the send, not too bad on its own but you just have to hold it together! Jul 28, 2017
Great video featuring a few of the above commenters. Chain Reaction is featured toward the end.
watch.opb.org/video/2365124… Dec 5, 2013
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The first one day ascent of Chain Reaction was by Geoff Weigand. This sort of distinction was important in the 1990's. Mar 22, 2013
Cool video May 25, 2009
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12c
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
  5.12c
Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up. Mar 3, 2009
I haven't been on the route in a couple decades, but nothing was drilled on the first ascent (except the bolt holes). I doubt if anyone came back and modified anything later, so chalk this one up as a baseless rumor. The one finger pocket on the right wall just below the roof wasn't discovered until a few years after the first ascent. Maybe that's where the rumor got started. Feb 2, 2009
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12c
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
  5.12c
Rumor has it that the key dishes on the right face are drilled. I'm trying to find out if this is true. Oct 30, 2006
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
When I was there, there were fixed draws on the route, and only after going up 15 feet to the first draw did I realize just how BAD the draws were. You may want to bring your own, as I'm not sure how many MORE big falls the bolt in the crux can withstand. Above the first crux pulling into the dyno move is a long ways above the bolt protecting the move.

I've pulled through the first crux, and then wanked above it. Then I've cheated through the crux and nailed the dyno, but I just can't seem to link them. ARRRGGGHHH!!! Maybe next time.... Jul 19, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12c
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12c
I've fallen off of this route more times than I'd care to admit. I've pulled through the lower crux plenty of times, only to fall off of the dyno over the lip. It's a classic though! One of these days I'll get around to sending it... Jan 24, 2006