Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Watts-1985
Page Views: 14,778 total · 94/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Darkness at noon travels up a wall that is so highly featured that it makes it possible for folks of all sizes to figure out sequences through the various cruxes. The route can basically be broken up in to three sections; the first four bolts feature technical climbing on micro edges and two finger pockets, the middle section contains easier longer moves on good holds capped by a technical leftward traverse, and the final section is pumpy on good overhanging holds. The three sections are divided by full recovery resting jugs. While the hardest power endurance moves are found low on the route the redpoint crux is high up on the wall as you are forced to make a precision move to the "mail slot." Patient static climbers with great technical skills and lock off strength are well suited for this climb. Expect some sporting run outs.

Location

Darkness At Noon is the route just to the left of Heinous Cling. You will need a 70m rope, this guy is long

Protection

8 Bolts to 2 BA. [Long] Stick clip recommended.

Photos