Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Watts-1985
Page Views: 11,954 total · 88/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Darkness at noon travels up a wall that is so highly featured that it makes it possible for folks of all sizes to figure out sequences through the various cruxes. The route can basically be broken up in to three sections; the first four bolts feature technical climbing on micro edges and two finger pockets, the middle section contains easier longer moves on good holds capped by a technical leftward traverse, and the final section is pumpy on good overhanging holds. The three sections are divided by full recovery resting jugs. While the hardest power endurance moves are found low on the route the redpoint crux is high up on the wall as you are forced to make a precision move to the "mail slot." Patient static climbers with great technical skills and lock off strength are well suited for this climb. Expect some sporting run outs.

Location

Darkness At Noon is the route just to the left of Heinous Cling. You will need a 70m rope, this guy is long

Protection

8 Bolts to 2 BA. [Long] Stick clip recommended.

Photos

Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
There is a controversial no-hands rest on the arete, also known as the "Portland rest" is said to throw the grade down significantly. The route follows the name and does go into the shade after 12. This is a good thing on hot days, but in the winter months it makes quite the epic belay for the belayer(bring the down jacket). May 10, 2010