Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Colin Lantz 4/88
Page Views: 4,222 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

A great arete route despite bad rock to start. Climb 20 feet of poor rock, clip the first bolt and move out onto the face. Tackle some easy face climbing and move out onto the arete. Slap, pinch, and palm your way through the first crux (around bolt 4), move onto the left face and milk a great rest in large incut pockets. Begin the second crux directly above. It involves some tricky pocket sequences. Move back onto the face and run to the anchors. The final 30 ft is fairly easy, however a good pump could send you packing.

Location

Furthest route left in the dehidrals. Take the Prophet wall path to it.

Protection

Eight bolts, two bolt anchor`

Photos

Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12b
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12b
This route is awesome. If you like 5.12 arete climbing, you absolutely have to do this route. Many cool sequences split by great rests. Oct 31, 2008
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Harder than Go dog go I thought...the crux uses a tiny crimp that I can barely get 3 fingers on. Nov 21, 2008
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
Found a great way to do the crux for me on top rope only to realize that the rope is RIGHT in front of the foot I used when on lead. All the hard moves seen to be when you're moving from the right face to the left. Crux is very well protected but everywhere else is spaced enough to keep you on your toes. Feb 13, 2013
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Great route! Looking forward to sending, hopefully next time out there!
I replaced the biner on the first fixed draw with a new one since the old one had a nasty, sharp groove in it. If someone has a spare steel biner, that would be a good draw to put it on, as both routes share it, and lowering really wears it down quickly. Oct 14, 2016
TCarrier carrier
Bend, Oregon
TCarrier carrier   Bend, Oregon
I was about to get on this today and someone told me the first bolt is a spinner, and it's a glue in. So basically it could fall out. Not confirmed, but watch out. Mar 31, 2018
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12b
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
  5.12b
I think that first bolt is actually a sleeve'd bolt. Just an odd design/was only used briefly back in the day. One of the old Metolius ones. Just tork it clockwise to about 30 lbs. Apr 1, 2018