Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Alan Watts, February 1984
Page Views: 7,856 total · 50/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Most climbers start this classic arete route by veering in from the right onto the arete rather than the original direct start. Continuous technical arete moves highlight the climb. For myself, I've found the moves past the final bolt easiest on the left (the original crux), while the majority of climbers apparently find it easier to stay on the right side.

Location

The arete just left of Karate Crack, in front of the stair-steps.

Protection

4 Bolts and an optional 1.5 Friend above the last bolt (the climbing eases off soon after the last bolt, but if you're totally flamed, you could potentially fall off in the last 15+ feet to the anchors).

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12b
This route is a blast, especially because when you get sick of falling out of the crux you can walk 10ft. to your left and fall out of the crux on Watt's Totts. ;) Apr 11, 2006
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12b
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12b
Definitely sustained the whole way. I found the moves above the last bolt to be easier on the ft side of the arete as well. Oct 15, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
I think it's easier to go left too, but everyone I was climbing with today went right. Oct 29, 2011
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
I've never tried going left. On the right I do remember one pretty big deadpoint to a GREAT hold which was pretty committing cause you're a ways above your bolt. Feb 13, 2013
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
 
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
 
.75 (green) camalot for the optional piece. The hard climbing is over by this point though. Apr 3, 2014
All draws and quick links replaced as of 12/2/16 not sure who put up the old ones but contact me if you want the steel biners and quick links back, they're in decent shape Dec 2, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Once you reach the ledge a . 75 Green Camalot is really not needed. Super fun climb. Jun 18, 2018