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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 36 ft
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 968 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This bold line was the first route to venture above Karate Crack on the magnificent Karate Wall. The route was established in "Ground-Up" fashion, with all of the original bolts placed on lead, hanging from hooks. This was a common practice in the early 80's in areas such as Yosemite. However, to truly appreciate the boldness of this ascent, consider the (poor) quality of the stone on the upper half of the pitch.

In its current state, this route is still a bold undertaking, with massive runouts on very spooky rock, and bird's nests in key pockets. For this reason, this route is almost never climbed, even by the hourdes of topropers that monopolize the wall on a daily basis.

Rope drag on this pitch can be significant as the line wanders considerably, and even with the route's sparse protection you will be towing more than 30m of rope at the top.

Begin up Karate Crack. When the crack turns horizontal, head straight up to the first large hueco (as for Crossfire). If you desire, stuff a #3 Camalot in this pocket then head directly left to the other large hueco slightly higher and 8 feet left (as for Power Dive). Clip the bolt just above the hueco, (probably with a really long sling, unless you are using double ropes) then crank the crux move, a heinous crank on a sloping 2-finger pocket to a large rail. Traverse right along the rail, clipping Crossfire's 2nd bolt, then continue right-wards past Crossfire, to a dark brown, chalkless wall of creaking nobs and pidgeon nests.

The route continues, mostly from large pocket to large pocket, up and right, ever-steepening as you ascend. Pass two more bolts, then the final crux: crimping on rounded edges. A long runout leads to the final enormous hueco. De-pump and place a tipped-out #3 (or perhaps #3.5 or #4) Camalot in this pocket. 10 more feet on easing terrain lead to the last bolt, and a final runout on huge knobs and flexing flakes to the top of the wall.

In this day and age, it might make more sense (rope-drag-wise) to head straight up from Karate Crack, thru the Crossfire crux, then veer right, rather than climbing through the left hueco. However, the route was originally climbed as described above.

Location

Karate Wall. Begin up Karate Crack, then follow the right-most line to the top. See above for detailed weaving beta.

Protection

5 bolts, gear for Karate Crack, and 2 x #3 Camalot. (3.5 or 4 Camalot may work in the upper hueco).

Photos

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Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
No anchors on top of this route. Crossfire's anchors are maybe 8 feet to the left on top, possibly making cleaning (or TRing) a challenge. It does have some really nice climbing--big moves between jug pockets to a pumpy finish. If climbing straight through the first crux of Crossfire the difficulty should amount to 5.12b R. Aug 13, 2017
I tried this today and backed off. I was very glad I did because a new Camelot 4 wont't fit in the big hole. A new style 3 probably wouldn't be tipped out.
Honestly this thing is a bit of a horror show, you won't find any chalk on it and many of the holds I found were slopey. The bolts are probably ok, but they are 34 years old at this time. It's worth noting that Crossfire has 5 bolts in the same section as Slow Burn has 3. Apr 19, 2017