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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dean Fry and Jeff Thomas 12/72
Page Views: 4,890 total, 34/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Lycopodophyta climbs a right facing dihedral just right of Helium Woman. This climb is a pleasant way to top out at Smith, and a good lead for a new trad leader.

Climb the corner using perfect hand and fist jams, plus numerous features on the faces for feet and hands. There is one short section of finger crack 2/3 of the way up where the gear thins, but it is easily passed in one or two moves and you don't have to finger jam to climb past. At the top of the crack, step right and belay from the anchors above the first pitch of Bunny Face.

From the anchors on Bunny Face, you could rap to the ground. Or top out by stepping down and right (slightly spooky, place a piece before you reach the bolts) and following the bolts on Bunny Face to the top (5.6).

Another option (the original second pitch) would be to continue up the crack through a wide, grungy and flaring section to the top (5.8).

Location

To descend we did two raps off Cinnamon Slab. There is likely a better way.

Protection

Gear to 2" for the first pitch.

Photos

Tavish Hansen
Seattle, Washington
 
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, Washington
 
A set or two of nuts protects this better than anything else. Apr 13, 2017
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.7
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.7
No fist or hand jams on pitch 1. The finger locks were plenty good. Very fun climb. Small pro goes in whenever you want. P2 may take fists and hands but it doesn't look like p2 gets many ascents and guide only gives p2 1 star. Mar 28, 2014
There is an anchor for this one one the left side of the Chimney and another at the center of the face af the chimney making the back face of the chimney a great TR face climb or even hit up Rabbit stew on the right side of the chimney. Three great climbs from one anchor. Jun 1, 2010
cerickson
Portland, OR
 
cerickson   Portland, OR
 
Super fun climb. Didn't use any gear bigger than .75 and the placements sound a little hollow down low. There is an anchor (new?) immediately at the top of the climb on the left that keeps the anchor to the right free for other climbs. Oct 12, 2009