Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dean Fry and Jeff Thomas 12/72
Page Views: 5,868 total · 37/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


162 Opinions

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Description

Lycopodophyta climbs a right facing dihedral just right of Helium Woman. This climb is a pleasant way to top out at Smith, and a good lead for a new trad leader.

Climb the corner using perfect hand and fist jams, plus numerous features on the faces for feet and hands. There is one short section of finger crack 2/3 of the way up where the gear thins, but it is easily passed in one or two moves and you don't have to finger jam to climb past. At the top of the crack, step right and belay from the anchors above the first pitch of Bunny Face.

From the anchors on Bunny Face, you could rap to the ground. Or top out by stepping down and right (slightly spooky, place a piece before you reach the bolts) and following the bolts on Bunny Face to the top (5.6).

Another option (the original second pitch) would be to continue up the crack through a wide, grungy and flaring section to the top (5.8).

Location

To descend we did two raps off Cinnamon Slab. There is likely a better way.

Protection

Gear to 2" for the first pitch.

Photos

cerickson
Portland, OR
 
cerickson   Portland, OR
 
Super fun climb. Didn't use any gear bigger than .75 and the placements sound a little hollow down low. There is an anchor (new?) immediately at the top of the climb on the left that keeps the anchor to the right free for other climbs. Oct 12, 2009
There is an anchor for this one one the left side of the Chimney and another at the center of the face af the chimney making the back face of the chimney a great TR face climb or even hit up Rabbit stew on the right side of the chimney. Three great climbs from one anchor. Jun 1, 2010
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.7
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.7
No fist or hand jams on pitch 1. The finger locks were plenty good. Very fun climb. Small pro goes in whenever you want. P2 may take fists and hands but it doesn't look like p2 gets many ascents and guide only gives p2 1 star. Mar 28, 2014
Tavish Hansen
Seattle, WA
 
Tavish Hansen   Seattle, WA
 
A set or two of nuts protects this better than anything else. Apr 13, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.7
Felt similar to it's neighbor. Didn't care for my cam placements in this crack. Nuts work better. Apr 23, 2018