Avg: 3.9 from 48 votes
|Type:||Sport, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||Alan Watts 5/84|
|Page Views:||12,434 total · 65/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Jan 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
The route begins up Karate crack. As Karate Crack arches right, leave the crack and continue straight up the face. After placing a large cam in a pod above the crack you'll enter the sport part of the climb. This climb is commonly said to have two cruxes. One down low is reachy, thin, and crimpy but short while up higher you'll go through a sequential endurance sequence. There are several runout sections especially up high as you traverse to the left to finish. Mercifully the climbing is easier and the wall is steep but more than one climber has experienced an exhilarating fall there.
After topping out you can be lowered with a 70m or use the nearby Cinnamon slab to make two raps down.
One set of cams to a #3 camalot should get you through the Karate Crack section with an optional #4 camalot to place in a large pocket just above the crack. After leaving the large pocket you'll need 10-12 quickdraws to get you to the chains up top. Some people elect to use long runners on a few bolts up higher to minimize rope drag. Use of a light rope is also beneficial on this climb.