Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Watts 87
Page Views: 3,770 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Mar 8, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

A superb flake system leads you through the first four bolts. Technical face climbing ensues. The crux has gotten slightly harder since the FA as many key nubs have popped off. Very technical slab finish.

Location

in between Powder in the eyes and Latin lover.

Protection

9 bolts two bolt rap anchor

Photos

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Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12
This is a good route. The flake down low that looks easy, is far from it. Technical climbing all the way. Can step right to an off set a ways up to make the crux a bit easier. Oct 15, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12b
I'd stick clip the first bolt-- the first few moves on the flake are the most insecure. I found the crux to be significantly harder than Latin Lover's, but it's probably easier for those with smaller fingers.

As for the overall rating, I think it's slightly harder than the .12a version of Heinous Cling, making the .12b seem spot-on. Oct 19, 2008
ferrells
  5.12b
ferrells  
  5.12b
I was expecting an easy lead on this one, and did not find one. What was I thinking? Technical, big fall potential, engrossing.

Certainly stick clip the first - that's the crux. Jan 4, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
I'd disagree that the first moves are the crux. They are far from the most technically challenging moves on the route. Jun 1, 2010
Halley13
Boulder, CO
 
Halley13   Boulder, CO
 
Great route with super fun movement but the incredibly choosy and loose "X" marked flake in the middle of the route definitely detours from the line's greatness and makes it pretty scary and insecure :/ Oct 31, 2015
Bailed on this route over third bolt as an enormous and useful flake flexes under moderate strain. Could not figure out how to bypass, and with poor feet would be applying far too much force to this to feel secure for my belayer. Maybe wouldn’t pull, and mayhaps neither will you, but if you look near this flake will see much lighter rock behind from more recent rock fall than the rest of the face, which is not confidence inspiring. Oct 27, 2018
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
The loose block is a little creepy but it's not about to go anywhere. Pull on it, or do a slightly harder move to reach past if it makes you feel better; don't let it keep you off this great climb. Nov 17, 2018