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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Watts 87
Page Views: 3,520 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Mar 8, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

A superb flake system leads you through the first four bolts. Technical face climbing ensues. The crux has gotten slightly harder since the FA as many key nubs have popped off. Very technical slab finish.

Location [Suggest Change]

in between Powder in the eyes and Latin lover.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts two bolt rap anchor

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Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12
This is a good route. The flake down low that looks easy, is far from it. Technical climbing all the way. Can step right to an off set a ways up to make the crux a bit easier. Oct 15, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12b
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12b
I'd stick clip the first bolt-- the first few moves on the flake are the most insecure. I found the crux to be significantly harder than Latin Lover's, but it's probably easier for those with smaller fingers.

As for the overall rating, I think it's slightly harder than the .12a version of Heinous Cling, making the .12b seem spot-on. Oct 19, 2008
ferrells
  5.12b
ferrells  
  5.12b
I was expecting an easy lead on this one, and did not find one. What was I thinking? Technical, big fall potential, engrossing.

Certainly stick clip the first - that's the crux. Jan 4, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
I'd disagree that the first moves are the crux. They are far from the most technically challenging moves on the route. Jun 1, 2010
Halley13
Boulder, CO
 
Halley13   Boulder, CO
 
Great route with super fun movement but the incredibly choosy and loose "X" marked flake in the middle of the route definitely detours from the line's greatness and makes it pretty scary and insecure :/ Oct 31, 2015

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