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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Bauman, 1960s
Page Views: 10,375 total, 85/month
Shared By: ScottH on Nov 16, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A very popular easy route, Cinnamon Slab climbs the large right-facing corner separating the Dihedrals from lower angle and more broken rock to the east. While technically two pitches, most parties seem to finish on Cry Babies or Cinnamon Toast instead.

P1. From the base of Karate Crack, Cinnamon Slab takes the low-angle hand and fist crack to a comfortable bolted belay on a good ledge. The moves are good and thoughtful for the grade. 5.6

P2. A short section of face climbing leads to an easier, shallow dihedral and the upper anchor. 5.5

Location

To descend, make two single rope raps down the route. A second anchor on top of P1 helps reduce congestion.

Protection

Gear to 3.5". I would recommend 2 large pieces unless you are fairly comfortable at the grade. The climb takes great gear the whole way from solid stances, with some decent moves between. This is a great climb for new leaders.
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Both pitches are fun. Save the bigger gear for the top of P1; you need a 3 and a 4. Although P2 looks like it eats big gear, there are plenty of other options.

very mellow, well protected climb, worth doing both pitches, worth running it in one long pitch. Apr 17, 2017
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
  5.6
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
  5.6
Very fun climb, with tons of feet. 2 #4 cams can sew up the top, but one is probably sufficient when combined with a couple #3s. I didn't think it was greasy at all, but I was first on during a nice autumn day. Be very careful of the loose rocks at the top of P2. Oct 27, 2016
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
 
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
 
It's easy to kick lots of small rocks down from the upper anchor. Be careful - there are always tons of people below you. Mar 20, 2016
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
Pretty good route, and takes gear well. I agree on other comments about having an extra #3, #4.

The other thing worth noting at times there are nesting birds near the top of P1. Kinda surprising to have them pop out on you as you climb. So just a heads up. Apr 25, 2014
marmots
  5.6
marmots  
  5.6
Very fun! I didn't find it any more greasy than other popular moderates at Smith. I'll add to the comments about extra big gear. I brought up a #3 and #4 C4 but would've liked an extra of either size. Mar 8, 2014
EugeneGuy
  5.6
EugeneGuy  
  5.6
Fun. Do it! The second pitch is not as good as the first, but is worth doing for the rewarding views, and why not keep climbing since it's there?

A #4 camalot was nice to have near the top of the first pitch, and I'll bet a pink tricam (or some tricam around that size) would work in the horizontal crack before the last 15 feet. Sep 29, 2013
I'm a first time outdoor climber. Technically, climbing the Cinnamon Slab and then Cry Babies pitches was actually easy for me, but the side drop offs on both pitches were terrifying. (Side note, I'm afraid of heights but am loving climbing --- it's a messy mental mix...) Aug 22, 2013
It's way greasy with all the traffic. I can't think offhand of anything better in the same difficulty range but man as a new leader those feet do not inspire confidence May 23, 2013