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Areas in Smith Rock

(a) Picnic Lunch Wall 5 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 22
(b) Ship Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
(c) Shipwreck Wall 1 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
(d) Aggro Gully 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
(d.) The Outlook 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
(e) Western Ship - River Face 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
(f) Cocaine Gully 1 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
(g) Morning Glory Wall 3 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
(h) The Peanut 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(i) The Fourth Horseman 5 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(j) Rope de Dope Block 2 / 9 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(k) The Dihedrals 14 / 42 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 53
(l) Christian Brothers 22 / 46 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
(m) Smith Rock Group 16 / 66 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 83
(n) Snake Rock 3 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(o) Angel Flight Crags 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(p) Spiderman Buttress 10 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
(q) Mesa Verde Wall 5 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
(r) Pleasure Palace 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
(s) Monkey Face 11 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 17
(t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(tt) Mendenhall Ridge 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
(u) Red Wall 13 / 17 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
(uu) Easy's Playhouse 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(v) Monument Area 6 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
(vv)Staender Ridge 13 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
(x) The Marsupials 16 / 72 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 87
(xx) Indian Ridge 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
(y) The Zoo 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
(yy) Basalt Rimrock 40 / 22 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 65
(z) Lower Gorge 123 / 33 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 155
(zz) Upper Gorge 3 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Smith Rock Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 2,648 ft
GPS: 44.366, -121.143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,346,150 total · 9,231/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006 with updates
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Getting weather forecast...


Smith Rock is Oregon’'s premier rock climbing destination, and one of the best sport climbing areas in the United States. This world-renowned sport climbing mecca has more than once been at the focal point of the climbing world. Extensive development took place in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s by locals and international climbers alike, who put up scores of classic climbs on the tuff and basalt cliffs; development continues to this day with new moderates and cutting-edge routes going up each year. Ranging from classic beginner routes to hardcore testpieces on a wide variety of rock, there is truly something here for everyone. Although best known for its sport climbing traditional climbers can find plenty to be excited about here as well.

Located in the high desert in central Oregon, Smith Rock State Park’s cliffs and hillsides take a commanding presence over the surrounding terrain. The main cliffs are made of volcanic welded tuff, and surrounding bands of columnar basalt lie above the winding Crooked River.

Smith Rock is a perfect weekend getaway for residents of the Portland area as well as a worthy destination for anybody exploring the West’s climbing. The prominent walls overlooking the Crooked River are home to many of Smith Rock’s most famous routes, but for those seeking some solitude and adventure there is plenty to be found on the back side or among the basalt columns in the Upper and Lower gorge. Monkey Face, perhaps the park’s most recognizable feature, sits proudly on the back side of Smith Rock with spectacular views of the Cascade Mountains and the arid landscape below.

It takes years to become familiar with all of the areas at Smith, and there is enough climbing here to allow even the locals to find new favorites every season. There are over 1,500 routes at Smith but it's easy to get stuck in a cycle where you only climb the same 50 classics each season; a little exploring here to the less-traveled areas goes a long way.

Approaches are generally short and straightforward from the main parking lot, and a well-maintained system of trails provides easy access to all of the park’s areas. Please don’t stray from the established trails; the visual and environmental impact of people scrambling up the hillsides can be enormous.

There is water available at the parking lot and a drinking fountain at the bridge, although they both get turned off during the cold months. I've heard that the water from the sinks in the bathrooms isn't potable so bring your own to be on the safe side if the fountains are shut off.

Restrooms are available in the main parking lot, at the bridge, and the Phoenix Composting Toilet is conveniently located within sprinting distance of the popular walls on the front side of the park. Please respect those around you, keep your pets under control, and pack out everything that you bring in.

If you've never been to Smith Rocks before, there is an overview map posted here that can help you find your way around.
The areas to the left are organized in the same fashion as the Watt's Guidebook, going to the left from Picnic Lunch Wall, to Monkey Face, and then across to Red Wall and towards the Monument Wall and around the gorge.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Smith Rock State Park is located in the town of Terrebonne, Oregon. Take Smith Rock Drive East off of Hwy. 97 in Terrebonne, then take a left on 17th Street, a right on Wilcox Ave, and finally a left on Crooked River Drive to the main parking lot. It's pretty easy to find, but here's a map just in case.

Driving time to Smith Rock State Park is approximately 6-7 hours from Seattle, 2.5-3 hours from Portland, and around 30 minutes from Bend. The closest airport is 10 miles away in Redmond, OR.


Due to its location in Oregon's high desert the weather at Smith is typically dry and sunny. Generally there are very few days of the year where climbing is out of the question at Smith; soaking rain is rare, although the heat can be oppressive during the summer.

The best times to climb at Smith are the Spring and Fall. Summers are hot and it's not uncommon for the thermometer to soar above 100F in the sun, and in winter there are plenty of near to sub-freezing dry days for your hardcore redpoint attempts.

Standard desert rules apply to camping too: it gets surprisingly cold at night so be sure to pack that down jacket.

A Brief Note About The Routes

Smith is a sport climber's paradise in many ways, but there are some key factors that must be kept in mind for a fun trip.

First-timers will undoubtedly notice something strange about the first bolt on many of the routes: it is often 15 feet off the ground, and there will likely be some committing moves leading up to it. This goes for routes of almost any grade, from the 5.8 trade routes to the 5.13 and .14 projects. Many of these routes begin on hillsides as well which makes a pre-clip tumble a very, very bad idea.

Do not hesitate to bring a stick-clip down into the park with you, and prepare to be somewhat humble about the climbing. People do occasionally take some ugly falls before the first bolt has been clipped on popular routes, which can easily be avoided by pre-clipping the 'draw.

You don't often see routes here with bolts every 5 ft. as you might at other areas, and while it may be intimidating at first you'll learn to love it as you spend more time here. If it's your first time at Smith it wouldn't be a bad idea to start off slowly and try a handful of routes a grade or 3 below what you're used to climbing, just to make sure you're comfortable.

Camping & Fees

There is a $5.00/car fee to use Smith Rock that can be paid for at the kiosk in the main parking lot. For $30.00 you can buy a season pass at Thriftway in Terrebonne or at the Welcome Yurt in the main parking lot at the park on weekends from 9-2.

There are two options for camping at Smith. For a fee ($5/person/night) you can camp at the Smith Bivy area which is adjacent to the park-- look for the sign just before the main parking lot. There are bathrooms, water, and a cooking area; no fires are allowed. Be aware this is tent camping only - you cannot sleep in your vehicles.

The second option is the "Grasslands" campground (officially known as Skull Hollow). To get there take either Wilcox Avenue or Smith Rock Way East until you reach Lone Pine Road-- take a left. After a few miles of cow pastures look for a sign on the left for Skull Hollow (Here's a Google Maps link with directions from the park). If you hit Hwy. 26 you've gone too far. Skull Hollow is a free BLM camping area with basic port-a-potties and camp fires are allowed. There is no water available here so stock up beforehand. It's first-come first-served and can fill up on busy weekends.

[UPDATE] Skull Hollow will no longer be a free campground as of May 15, 2009. This is ostensibly due to the less desirable characters that stay for long periods of time at the campground (no, I'm not talking about trad climbers!); there have been increasing amounts of gear theft as of late, and the popularity of the site is beginning to take a toll on the facilities. There will be a $5 per night charge, and a 14-day limit for all campers.


The Smith Bible (aka Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park) by Allan Watts is the best book out for Smith and one of the finest guidebooks anywhere. It is the second edition of Watts' Smith guide, and it contains an incredible amount of history, photos, topos, and beta.

The more compact Smith Rock Select is a great short list of the mega-classics here. Great pictures, clear topos, and good descriptions make for easy routefinding, but it's pretty brief in scope and is by no means comprehensive. If you're just passing through Smith for a weekend you could easily get by on this book alone.

Both books are listed in the Books For This Area link on this page.

Food & Supplies

The town of Terrebonne has a decent gocery store, gas stations, and even a decent espresso stand (around the back of Thriftway). Not to be missed is the climber-owned Terrebonne Depot for food, wine, beer, and cocktails; it's hard to beat a buffalo cheeseburger and a beer here after a day in the park.

Redmond is a 10 minute drive away and has a few decent breakfast places as well as some other hotels, fast food, grocery stores, and dinner options. The increasingly cosmopolitan city of Bend has a wide variety of restaurants, bars, and brewpubs that cater to everyone from the country club crowd to the local hippies.

Redpoint Climber's Supply is a great shop to pick up all your climbing and camping needs in Terrebonne. In addition to climbing gear they now offer coffee and espresso drinks, along with beer, cider, mead and kombucha, by the glass, or filling growlers. They have a small sitting area so people who are traveling can sit on a couch, or at a table, use the free WiFi, and grab a drink.

878 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Smith Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Pioneer Route
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
West Face Variation
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonshine Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Sister
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bad Finger
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moons of Pluto
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wartley's Revenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pure Palm
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magic Light Start
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vomit Launch
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heinous Cling Start
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spiderman (p) Spiderman Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Pioneer Route (s) Monkey Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
West Face Variation (s) Monkey Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Moonshine Dihedral (k) The Dihedrals 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Cruel Sister (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (3) Catwalk Cliff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Zion (g) Morning Glory Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Bad Finger (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Moons of Pluto (q) Mesa Verde Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wartley's Revenge (l) Christian Bro… > Christian Brothers - E Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pure Palm (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Magic Light Start (g) Morning Glory Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Toxic (d) Aggro Gully 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vomit Launch (f) Cocaine Gully 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Heinous Cling Start (k) The Dihedrals 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Heinous Cling (k) The Dihedrals 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Smith Rock »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season


I should know better but I'm adding my comments about the "oh no, the first bolt is too far off the ground" comments. Many of the routes at Smith were done decades ago. Sport climbing didn't exist back then. The early bolted routes were departures from what climbing meant up until that point. The early routes weren't wired to submission on TR before the bolts were placed. Without exception, every high first bolt was originally a boulder problem. We would do the start, climb down/jump off, and imagine that maybe a route might someday emerge above. Every bolt was drilled by hand and took about an hour. It seemed silly to place a bolt in the middle of a boulder problem I'd climbed dozens of times before. No one (absolutely no one) carried a stick clip back then. There was no such thing as a stick clip in 1984. That hadn't been invented yet. If you couldn't safely climb to the first bolt you didn't do the route. Please understand that when visiting the place where sport climbing in the US started, you will see something different from a crag developed a few years ago. The bolts you clip today, at one point long ago, were very controversial. Rather than complaining "oh my God, the first bolt is too high off the deck" just use a stick clip and accept the fact that these routes led to the tens of thousands of ultra safe sport routes you see everywhere today. Aug 19, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Please make this more prominent on the page.
Jul 6, 2017
Laramie, Wy
wyofog   Laramie, Wy
I am looking for a climbing partner anytime between December 3rd-10th. I am equipped with a full trad rack and am interested in trad climbing through 5.11 grade. Dec 2, 2017
Franck, it's a roll of the dice. Sometimes it's glorious, shirts off weather in the middle of winter. It's also completely possible to have overcast and/or frigid temperatures for a week or more. Snow in Terrebonne is less of a problem than rain, overcast, or bitter cold is. No one can tell you what you are going to experience on your trip. The only thing I can say is that winters tend to not all be the same. Some are consistently crappy, while others are consistently great for climbing. This winter is off to a good start so that's a good sign. Plan on climbing in the sun exclusively and be efficient with your time. The days are short mid-winter.

Chad Nov 4, 2017
So how's Smith in December/January? Would I feel like a dummy if flying from out East for 2-3 weeks around thoses? We'd be 2 so not a problem if it's kinda slow climber-wise.... but would it still be climbable? Or is there a chance of multiple sub zero days/snow where climbing doesn't happen much? Nov 3, 2017
Chris Hatzai
Bend, Oregon
Chris Hatzai   Bend, Oregon
The Monument Area is also opened as of June 29, 2017 Jul 6, 2017
I think the spaced out bolting is actually good. Coming from the East, most crags have closer to gym-like bolting most of the time. Here at the Smith, obviously not so - but it does add a degree of commitment and doesn't let you take your climbs as lightly as you may with gym-like bolting.

I also bet that the next time I get on a climb at my grade back east with "modern" bolting, I'll be able to climb closer to my physical limit and not miss a move not so much because I can't make it, but because I don't fully commit to it because or the (often irrational) fear of falling.

Once you're past the 3rd bolt, most routes I've done here are spaced widely yes but it's not dangerous- most cliffs are straight faces, any fall from high up a route is scared yes but not really dangerous.

Plus the 1st bolt being so high, gives more leewaay to avoid decking it.... Jul 5, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
I don't have a guidebook, and the announcement only listed page and route numbers, so thanks for the clarification.… May 13, 2017
Actually only routes on the Platform and Smith Summit are closed (Snibble, Freedom's Good Ole Days, Euro/No Vacation, Struggle Within) as well as any highlife that touches those towers. Sky Ridge and White Satin, Lost in Space, and Seasons Change remain open. May 13, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The seasonal raptor closures are fairly widespread and numerous this year, and the details don't seem to be very prominent on the page, so here is the link:….

Kiss of the Lepers and the Monument areas have had seasonal closures for awhile and remain in effect. Tents at the Bivy need to be kept away from the rimrock due to nesting bald eagles. Yesterday, the usual Picnic Lunch wall closure was moved to the NE Face of the Smith Rock Group.

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
I just added a general overview map of Smith Rocks, with main walls marked and listed on it. It should help with finding the wall you are looking for. Link to Map Dec 16, 2014
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
It would be no problem at all to find people to climb with. Its gonna be really hot in July, but you can climb in the shade and find decent temps. The Bivy is a great place to find partners. Jun 25, 2014
How crowded does this place get and how easy is it to meet people in the campground to climb with? I'm doing a solo road trip and will be passing through in mid-to-late July - is it optimistic to think I could meet up with people to swap belays without arranging stuff ahead of time? Jun 3, 2014
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Hey guys just wondering how it is to find partners around smith rock if coming up here alone from early november until early december?? busy times?? kinda slow? or what, climbing gyms to find partners? Thanks. Oct 3, 2013
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
A few thoughts after my first visit to Smith Rock; a full week of easy and moderate climbing sport and trad.

1. Despite what people say about the plentiful trad routes here, the place really is the domain of hard sport climbers. There are a few fun easy trad routes, but this is not a "destination crag" for easy and moderate trad single/multi-pitch. The basalt rimrock we'd hoped would yield a lot of fun short easy and moderate crack climbs looked like it hadn't been visited since 1980. Sand and cobwebs all over everything. Lots of manky fixed gear.

2. Bring a stick clip. We were told various things about why the first bolts are so high here, and the only thing that made any sense was that the authors of the routes assumed you were coming with a stick clip, so they didn't bother spending the time or money on what would normally be the first bolt of an average sport route. The idea of "spicing up" a route that was previewed on rappel, dialed on toprope, then rap bolted (what some people claimed was the reason behind the high first bolts) is the dumbest thing I think I ever heard. It's sport climbing. If you don't have a stick clip, dig around in the nooks and crannies around a project and you might find one you could borrow.

3. The place is really beautiful, and the park clearly knows what side it's bread is buttered on; the climbing community is really catered to here, which is actually a double-edged sword. Highlining seems to be all the rage at Smith, and the park apparently lets people set up highlines and leave them set up. This results in an unsightly jumble of highlines almost everywhere you look up. In one place, there were actually two long-ish highlines that crossed each other. For a tourist who just wants to enjoy the natural beauty of the place, I would think that this would be an unpleasant distraction. I suppose this has been exhaustively reviewed by park policy makers.

4. You'll read and hear people griping about the long hikes to the climbs. The only way someone could find it reasonable to complain about the approaches here is if the longest approach they'd ever done was from their car to the gym wall. The approaches here are short, pleasant, and scenic. The longer approaches are still short, and the steeper trails have actual staircases on then that often go right to the climbs. Sep 22, 2013
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
April can be awesome. It can also be rainy if you get unlucky, spring being a wet time of year around here. With two weeks, you'll almost certainly get at least four or more good days. Feb 16, 2013
I'm planning a trip for 4/4 thru 4/18 of this year. I was just wondering if anyone had any comments on the weather/temps that time of year. Feb 13, 2013

Check out these Sweet Cabins located only 15 min from Smith Rock at Crooked River Ranch. This is definitely a great option for a unique place to stay and relax after a hard days climb.
Feb 23, 2012
Parking fee has increased. I think it is $5 per day now. If you plan to stay a week or visit ofetn, buyt the annual pass. I like to get a two year pass and do it with another party - even more of a discount for the second 2 year pass. Aug 4, 2011
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
Temps are getting down in the 20's at night. Be sure to bring many warm clothes. Also, the water in the canyon is shut-off for winter, so you will need to fill at the bathroom, or bring your own water. Oct 14, 2008
Just got back from three days here. What a blast! This might be the birthplace of sport climbing in the U.S. but it is no place for folks that can't boulder 10-20 feet up to get the first bolt (unless you have a big stick clip). You generally will not find bolts every 6-7 feet either so think of it as old school sport. Only did one trad route due to limited time but look forward to a return visit as there are some great looking corners and we did not even get to the lower gorge. Jun 15, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  

Apparently the temperature is low enough at night that they have shut off the water fountain at the bridge again. Lots of people were running out of water this weekend, so be sure to fill up at the parking lot before heading down. Apr 14, 2008
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
I agree. Please only post on routes you have actually done, or at least let the reader know you have not actually done it. I got screwed on a crack with "consistently tight hands" once. I got there with nothing larger than a #2 camalot. The route would not protect with anything but 2 #3 camalots as I found out on a return trip. A lot of swearing ensued and I could not send the route. Funny thing is the handjam off the ground was the only tight one on the entire route. Jan 12, 2007
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
It seems to me like a lot of folks are posting routes that they haven't acutally done (or maybe a few folks are doing it a lot). Perhaps that is standard practice, but it seems a bit dubious to me. If all users are interested in is a regurgitation of the guidebook, why not just get the guidebook? It seems like the real value in a site like this is that you can get first-hand beta from someone who has actually done the route. Even though the distinguished Mr. Watts has done almost all of the routes he described, his descriptions are at least 14 years old, so again, this site can provide the benifit of up-to-date beta.

Maybe I'm off-base. But if you haven't done a route you are posting, at least mention that information in the description, or better, wait for someone who has done it to add the route. Nov 29, 2006

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