Type: Sport
FA: Derrick Peppers, Harrison Ruffin, July 2014.
Page Views: 2,399 total · 45/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This route makes a good option for those wanting something a little different from the usual smith face climbing or wanting to learn chimney tech. crux is prob the start or the finish depending on climbers height. Recommended stick clip. The chockstone in the crack is pretty solid (we gave it some serious testing) but I would still recommend doing it without using it. Enjoy!

Location

The large Chimney 15 feet to the left of Chain Reaction. Look for bolts on the outside edge of the wide chimney.

Protection

4 Bolts. shares anchor with Ancylostoma.

Photos

Mike Dalby
Bend, OR
Mike Dalby   Bend, OR
I'm a little confused about the location of this route. What's the difference between it and Rattlesnake Chimney? Sep 3, 2014
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
  5.8
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
  5.8
You can't protect Rebirth with natual pro. Rebirth is much better rock than the inside of the chimney. They are about 20 feet seperated between Rattlesnake and Rebirth but both are chimney climbs. that way trad climbers can go up the dirty inside hole and sport climbers can experience the exposed wider chimney on the outside edge. Nothing but posotive feedback regarding the quality of the climb so far. Thx for your feedback Mike. Cheers:) Sep 10, 2014
Richmond C
Lubbock, TX
  5.8
Richmond C   Lubbock, TX
  5.8
What a fun route. My first time in a chimney. The hardest part was certainly getting into the chimney. I fell a few times and was glad that I'd already clipped the first bolt with a stick clip. There are some nasty ledges that I would not want to fall on. Once in the chimney, the route is very mental. The bolts are close to the edge of the chimney and you can feel quite exposed going that far out if you are not used to chimneys. That being said, you should follow the bolts, there is much more purchase out towards the outside edge. Jun 18, 2015
Joshua Burns 1
Yosemite, ca
Joshua Burns 1   Yosemite, ca
Honestly, I love this route. There's nothing particularly unique or outlandishly special about it, but I do it every time I've been to Smith since it was put up. The bolt line puts you out a lot further than the line one would normally take, placing the leader in a slightly more exposed, and stretched into a wide chimney. The chockstone is fun moving around...but why is the anchor so high?!? Was there no place better for less rope drag? Sep 17, 2015
Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
 
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
 
Definitely a great unique addition to Smith. Oct 27, 2016
Ian Fritz
Tucson, AZ
Ian Fritz   Tucson, AZ
Second bolt is missing as of 7/8/2018. I found it loose enough to remove with my hand, so I took it out. Jul 19, 2018