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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Derrick Peppers, Harrison Ruffin, July 2014.
Page Views: 1,602 total, 40/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route makes a good option for those wanting something a little different from the usual smith face climbing or wanting to learn chimney tech. crux is prob the start or the finish depending on climbers height. Recommended stick clip. The chockstone in the crack is pretty solid (we gave it some serious testing) but I would still recommend doing it without using it. Enjoy!

Location

The large Chimney 15 feet to the left of Chain Reaction. Look for bolts on the outside edge of the wide chimney.

Protection

4 Bolts. shares anchor with Ancylostoma.

Photos

Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
 
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
 
Definitely a great unique addition to Smith. Oct 27, 2016
Joshua Burns 1
Yosemite, ca
Joshua Burns 1   Yosemite, ca
Honestly, I love this route. There's nothing particularly unique or outlandishly special about it, but I do it every time I've been to Smith since it was put up. The bolt line puts you out a lot further than the line one would normally take, placing the leader in a slightly more exposed, and stretched into a wide chimney. The chockstone is fun moving around...but why is the anchor so high?!? Was there no place better for less rope drag? Sep 17, 2015
Richmond C
  5.8
Richmond C  
  5.8
What a fun route. My first time in a chimney. The hardest part was certainly getting into the chimney. I fell a few times and was glad that I'd already clipped the first bolt with a stick clip. There are some nasty ledges that I would not want to fall on. Once in the chimney, the route is very mental. The bolts are close to the edge of the chimney and you can feel quite exposed going that far out if you are not used to chimneys. That being said, you should follow the bolts, there is much more purchase out towards the outside edge. Jun 18, 2015
Derrick Peppers
everywhere
 
Derrick Peppers   everywhere
 
You can't protect Rebirth with natual pro. Rebirth is much better rock than the inside of the chimney. They are about 20 feet seperated between Rattlesnake and Rebirth but both are chimney climbs. that way trad climbers can go up the dirty inside hole and sport climbers can experience the exposed wider chimney on the outside edge. Nothing but posotive feedback regarding the quality of the climb so far. Thx for your feedback Mike. Cheers:) Sep 10, 2014
Mike Dalby
Bend, OR
Mike Dalby   Bend, OR
I'm a little confused about the location of this route. What's the difference between it and Rattlesnake Chimney? Sep 3, 2014