Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: J.B.Tribout 10/88
Page Views: 3,199 total · 21/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

An easy version of To Bolt. The overall crux is trying to link everything. Sport climbers stay away due to climbing Sunshine Dihedral. Pre-placing gear Isn't against the rules. Climb Sunshine to the pin. Traverse into To Bolt using a long sling to reduce rope drag.

Location

At the base of To Bolt or Not To Be.

Protection

Small nuts and tcu's.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I thought this was a pretty contrived & silly linkup, until I did it. It actually makes good sense once you're on the route. After 50 feet of stemming up Sunshine dihedral just about anything looks easier than another 40 feet of stemming. Suddenly 5.13 crimps don't sound so bad! The gear is bomber except for a tricky/thin section between the first bolt & the fixed pin. Rope drag is no problem if you use long draws on all your gear, a shoulder length sling on your last piece, and a shoulder length sling on the first bolt on the face.

The rock is super good, but since its a linkup that adds only ~2 new moves, I don't think it deserves 4 stars. Nov 27, 2008