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Routes in (k) The Dihedrals

Almost Nothing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ancylostoma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bookworm T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Captain Xenolith S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Chain Reaction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cinnamon Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cognition S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crossfire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cry Baby S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Reader S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Firing line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flat Earth, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fox In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Connection T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Freshly Squeezed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ginger Snap S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Go Dog Go S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Heinous Cling Start S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Helium Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Karate Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Karot Tots T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Last Waltz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Latest Rage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Latin Lover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen It S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lycopodophyta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Aged Vandal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monster Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Moondance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonshine Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Flight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peapod Cave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peep Show S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Powder in the Eyes S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Power Dive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabbit Stew T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebirth S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Slab Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Burn T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Sunshine Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Take a Powder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Watts Totts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wedding Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jean Marc Troussier, October 1986
Page Views: 1,835 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This radically neglected face climb was one of the less-famous results of the French Invasion of 1986. Despite perfect rock, interesting moves, & an accessible grade, this route sits totally ignored at the busiest crag at Smith, likely due to the R-rating in the Watts guide. However, it has been recently rebolted, and the R rating is no longer valid.

The route ascends the pretty pink face in the back of the alcove between Watts Totts & To Bolt. Begin by scrambling up ledges immediately left of Latin Lover. There is a bit of lose gravel on these ledges, so use caution. A thin-hand sized piece can be used to protect these moves, but is not necessary. From the ledge head straight up the face on cool knobs & the occasional shallow pocket. Use care approaching the second bolt. The crux comes below the 4th bolt, on a tenuous traverse from left to right.

Almost Nothing gets a lot of shade compared to other Dihedrals routes, making it a good morning option on a warm day.

Location

In the alcove, immediately right of Take a Powder, and left of the thin off-set seam of Lester Tots.

Protection

7 bolts(?), 2 BA. The route is really not runout at all by Smith standards, and with the re-bolting is no longer R rated.

Photos

Antoine Delorme
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Antoine Delorme   Portland, OR
  5.12a
This route was tons of fun with continuous crimping and knob climbing. Definitely worth it! Jun 3, 2016
kent benesch  
 
This route has seen a recent re-bolt. All new 4 3/4 x 1/2 bolts have been used to replace the 3/4 long 28 year old bolts. Additional bolts have been added so as to no longer have an R rating. The grade has also been confirmed by many that have climbed it since the re-bolt at 5.12a, not 5.11d. Mar 18, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Has there been any further discussion on moving the first bolt higher? Mar 18, 2015
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This is a good route that should receive more traffic. It seems that people have ignored it due to the R-rating. I never felt scared or in danger while climbing this, and I didn;t use a stick clip. I think there is potential to hurt yourself if you fell below the 2nd bolt & your belayer was inattentive, or if you fell while clipping, but I think that's true of most routes.

I think stick clipping the 2nd bolt (or moving the 1st & 2nd bolts higher) would be totally acceptable, and would be a good way to make this more popular.

Anyway, there's (a small amount of) chalk on it now, so get after it! Mar 31, 2009