Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jean Marc Troussier, October 1986
Page Views: 2,205 total · 19/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This radically neglected face climb was one of the less-famous results of the French Invasion of 1986. Despite perfect rock, interesting moves, & an accessible grade, this route sits totally ignored at the busiest crag at Smith, likely due to the R-rating in the Watts guide. However, it has been recently rebolted, and the R rating is no longer valid.

The route ascends the pretty pink face in the back of the alcove between Watts Totts & To Bolt. Begin by scrambling up ledges immediately left of Latin Lover. There is a bit of lose gravel on these ledges, so use caution. A thin-hand sized piece can be used to protect these moves, but is not necessary. From the ledge head straight up the face on cool knobs & the occasional shallow pocket. Use care approaching the second bolt. The crux comes below the 4th bolt, on a tenuous traverse from left to right.

Almost Nothing gets a lot of shade compared to other Dihedrals routes, making it a good morning option on a warm day.

Location

In the alcove, immediately right of Take a Powder, and left of the thin off-set seam of Lester Tots.

Protection

7 bolts(?), 2 BA. The route is really not runout at all by Smith standards, and with the re-bolting is no longer R rated.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12a
This is a good route that should receive more traffic. It seems that people have ignored it due to the R-rating. I never felt scared or in danger while climbing this, and I didn;t use a stick clip. I think there is potential to hurt yourself if you fell below the 2nd bolt & your belayer was inattentive, or if you fell while clipping, but I think that's true of most routes.

I think stick clipping the 2nd bolt (or moving the 1st & 2nd bolts higher) would be totally acceptable, and would be a good way to make this more popular.

Anyway, there's (a small amount of) chalk on it now, so get after it! Mar 31, 2009
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Has there been any further discussion on moving the first bolt higher? Mar 18, 2015
kent benesch  
 
This route has seen a recent re-bolt. All new 4 3/4 x 1/2 bolts have been used to replace the 3/4 long 28 year old bolts. Additional bolts have been added so as to no longer have an R rating. The grade has also been confirmed by many that have climbed it since the re-bolt at 5.12a, not 5.11d. Mar 18, 2015
Antoine Delorme
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Antoine Delorme   Portland, OR
  5.12a
This route was tons of fun with continuous crimping and knob climbing. Definitely worth it! Jun 3, 2016