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Elevation: 3,442 ft 1,049 m
GPS: 42.75293, -122.90683
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,366 total · 1,611/month
Shared By: Charlie Brown on Sep 9, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

Welcome to Southern Oregon's destination climbing location: Located near Shady Cove, an hour from Ashland, 40 mins from Medford, 50 mins from Klamath Falls, and only 2 hours from the Mt. Shasta area, Terra Nova is host to 150 plus sport climbs ranging from the 5.6 to the 5.13 grade.  With short bouldery pitches, steep 3D climbs, and power resistance enduro pitches, Terra Nova has everything you'll want, and climbs for almost everyone from projects to on-sightable pitches.

As of September 2023, our local non profit SWOCC (South West Oregon Climbers Coalition) has received hardware from the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) through their "Lower-Off Initiative". SWOCC members and local developers are hard at work to install these safe lower off anchor additions. Please use them to lower off climbs and not to top rope.

Camping:

Located on National Forest land, Terra Nova has great dispersed camping options, as well as a crudely developed campsite with a built stone fire ring.  The campsite can be found at the junction of FS Road 32 and the left hand turn you'll take to access the crag.  The camping is first come first serve and as stewards of the land we ask that you practice proper LNT principals when utilizing this amenity.  Pay close attention to fire regulations and please bury or pack-out all human waste.  Below are a few resources regarding fire regulations, LNT practice, and human waste disposal.

Umpqua National Forest - Tiller Ranger District

Leave No Trace (LNT.org)

Garbage, Food, and Human Waste in the Woods

Human Waste Pack-Out Bags

History:

These formations saw their first ascents dating back as far as 1994.  First ascents are still being done today.  Local developers are still active and there are some climbs that have not yet seen redpoint sends.  In years past there was an ambiguous raptor closure covering this area due to the nesting of the local Peregrine Falcons. In 2021 this restriction was removed due to the birds nesting in other locations.  The crag is now open year round, but can be inaccessible in the winter due to shaded roads holding onto icy snow drifts.  

Bolting and Hardware:

When climbing at Terra Nova you may notice a fixed cable draw here or there, or a set of carabiners hanging from the chains at the top of a climb.  These items have been donated or purchased by local climbers and developers for the added safety of clipping from a secure stance, or the ease of lowering off climbs.  Please leave this hardware as you found it.  The local ethic and proper etiquette is to top rope through your personal gear (quickdraws etc..) not the fixed hardware.  Feel free to lower-off and clean the climb using the hardware that is available, and please leave these items for the next climbers to use.  

Bolts installed at Terra Nova are climbing rated 1/2" powers 5-piece sleeve bolts and range from 3" to 6 3/4" in length depending on rock density and line of fall.  

As of 2021, many but not all of the climbs here are equipped with lower off hardware, be prepared to clean on rappel if there is not lowering hardware installed at the 2 bolt anchor.

Trail and Belay Pad Construction:

A fire in the recent years left the crag climbable, but burned many of the beautiful trees surrounding the rock formations.  After the fire the soil around the crag is very loose and much less dense than it once was.  This has improved over the last year as new life and root structure in the ashy slopes is beginning to help hold the soil together.  This being said, treat belay pads and trails/steps with care.  Lumbering around the crag or letting your dog trample these delicate surfaces destroys the infrastructure developed by hard working local climbers.  Please feel free to make minor improvements to the belay pads your using but please don't dig or construct a new one, local climbing coalitions and crag developers are hard at work planning the best and most sustainable ways to make these belay pads and trails last without negatively effecting the environment.  

Safety and Care for the Crag:

Terra Nova is still a newly developed crag and is beginning to see more traffic in the recent years.  Many routes are seldom climbed despite their ease of access and stellar movement.  This leaves a few of them ridden with moss, sand, or dirt inside holds or pockets.  Some routes have seen newly exfoliating rock.  Please do not be afraid to bring a small wire brush and clean up a route a bit as you climb or as you lower off and clean the pitch. 

As far as loose rocks are concerned, these routes have been cleaned up and loose rocks removed as they have been developed and bolted.  Much like Oregon's world class sport crag Smith Rock State Park, Terra Nova sees its share of loose or crispy holds.  If something dangerous is found, please report it in the route comments so that others are aware.  If you have to work hard to break a loose hold then you should probably leave it alone.  Helmets are recommended especially for the safety of the belayer as a loose rock falling from a climber above can seriously injure the belayer leading to a spooky rescue scenario that could have been avoided by simply wearing brain bucket.

Stick clips are recommended due to the high first bolt at many climbs, as well ad the exfoliating layers that often exist in the first 10 feet of climbing.  The high first bolt is place to protect a fall in this scenario.  Stick clips are so common these days, buy one or ask around at the crag if you forgot your own.

Local Amenities:

Terra Nova is located near Shady Cove, OR.  The small town hosts, Shady Cove Market, Phil's Frosty, Pizza at the Cove, Mac's Diner, and Goebel's Country BBQ.  

There are a few gas stations in Shady Cove as well as an auto parts store and a local hardware store.

Asks From the Developers:

If you've read this far then we are assuming that you might be familiar with how to use Mountain Project.  The local developers request that if you don't mind doing so, take a photo, post a photo to a route page, add a comment to a route, give it a star rating!  We love this crag as much as you and we ask that you help us share information on this page to make routes more approachable, and to help people decide what they want to spend their time on as they visit.

Concerning the listed grades of climbs, we are all probably familiar with the idea that climbing grades are subjective to the strengths, weaknesses, and body types of various climbers.  This often leads to a discrepancy of a given grade.  Please leave a suggested grade rating using the mountain project app so that we can better develop a consensus grade for each individual route at the crag.  This will help improve the experience we have as well as those who visit the crag after us.

Getting There Suggest change

Take highway 227 north out of Trail Oregon for about 10 miles. Turn left at a fire danger level sign after the hard winding curves onto Forest Service road 32 (this is a well maintained dirt road). Drive 3.5ish miles to summit ridge and a small camp site on your left. Take a left here passing the forementioned campsite on your right now. Follow this small Forest Service road for a 1/4 mile to a small parking area on your left. Please park nose in (or back in) and allow for the accommodation of 6-8 cars. Make sure you’re not blocking the road as it is occasionally traveled. The approach trail is on the right side of the road across from the parking turnout. It’s roughly a 5 min hike to over 150 sport climbs between 5.6 and 5.13.


Additional parking can be found up the road before the main turnout and will be on descenders left of the road (downhill side). If parking is full don’t be afraid to park at the campsite and walk down the road. Locals do this all the time ;)

153 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Terra Nova

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Pavlova
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Winters End
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
La Mer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Midsummer Night
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
Matterhorn
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Predator
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Tesla the Electric Magician
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 18
Gold Rush
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
The Big Lie
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Freebird
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Blue Streak
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Choss Lord
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Legacy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Leggo Beast
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Warbird
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pavlova (.2) Rock City Wall
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Winters End (.7) Spotted Owl Wall
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
La Mer (14) 1st Alcove
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Midsummer Night (14) 1st Alcove
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Matterhorn (.7) Spotted Owl Wall
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Predator (.5) Bird Rock
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tesla the Electric Magician (14) 1st Alcove
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Gold Rush (.4) Icicle Wall
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Big Lie (19) Bill Newcomb Tower
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Freebird (.5) Bird Rock
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Blue Streak (13) Sun Dragon Block
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Choss Lord (20) The Palace
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Legacy (.8) Cascade Wall
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Leggo Beast (20) The Palace
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Warbird (12) Leaning Block
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Terra Nova »

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