Terra Nova Rock Climbing

Welcome to Southern Oregon's destination climbing location: Located near Shady Cove, an hour from Ashland, 40 mins from Medford, 50 mins from Klamath Falls, and only 2 hours from the Mt. Shasta area, Terra Nova is host to 150 plus sport climbs ranging from the 5.6 to the 5.13 grade.  With short bouldery pitches, steep 3D climbs, and power resistance enduro pitches, Terra Nova has everything you'll want, and climbs for almost everyone from projects to on-sightable pitches.

As of September 2023, our local non profit SWOCC (South West Oregon Climbers Coalition) has received hardware from the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) through their "Lower-Off Initiative". SWOCC members and local developers are hard at work to install these safe lower off anchor additions. Please use them to lower off climbs and not to top rope.

Camping:

Located on National Forest land, Terra Nova has great dispersed camping options, as well as a crudely developed campsite with a built stone fire ring.  The campsite can be found at the junction of FS Road 32 and the left hand turn you'll take to access the crag.  The camping is first come first serve and as stewards of the land we ask that you practice proper LNT principals when utilizing this amenity.  Pay close attention to fire regulations and please bury or pack-out all human waste.  Below are a few resources regarding fire regulations, LNT practice, and human waste disposal.

Umpqua National Forest - Tiller Ranger District

Leave No Trace (LNT.org)

Garbage, Food, and Human Waste in the Woods

Human Waste Pack-Out Bags

History:

These formations saw their first ascents dating back as far as 1994.  First ascents are still being done today.  Local developers are still active and there are some climbs that have not yet seen redpoint sends.  In years past there was an ambiguous raptor closure covering this area due to the nesting of the local Peregrine Falcons. In 2021 this restriction was removed due to the birds nesting in other locations.  The crag is now open year round, but can be inaccessible in the winter due to shaded roads holding onto icy snow drifts.  

Bolting and Hardware:

When climbing at Terra Nova you may notice a fixed cable draw here or there, or a set of carabiners hanging from the chains at the top of a climb.  These items have been donated or purchased by local climbers and developers for the added safety of clipping from a secure stance, or the ease of lowering off climbs.  Please leave this hardware as you found it.  The local ethic and proper etiquette is to top rope through your personal gear (quickdraws etc..) not the fixed hardware.  Feel free to lower-off and clean the climb using the hardware that is available, and please leave these items for the next climbers to use.  

Bolts installed at Terra Nova are climbing rated 1/2" powers 5-piece sleeve bolts and range from 3" to 6 3/4" in length depending on rock density and line of fall.  

As of 2021, many but not all of the climbs here are equipped with lower off hardware, be prepared to clean on rappel if there is not lowering hardware installed at the 2 bolt anchor.

Trail and Belay Pad Construction:

A fire in the recent years left the crag climbable, but burned many of the beautiful trees surrounding the rock formations.  After the fire the soil around the crag is very loose and much less dense than it once was.  This has improved over the last year as new life and root structure in the ashy slopes is beginning to help hold the soil together.  This being said, treat belay pads and trails/steps with care.  Lumbering around the crag or letting your dog trample these delicate surfaces destroys the infrastructure developed by hard working local climbers.  Please feel free to make minor improvements to the belay pads your using but please don't dig or construct a new one, local climbing coalitions and crag developers are hard at work planning the best and most sustainable ways to make these belay pads and trails last without negatively effecting the environment.  

Safety and Care for the Crag:

Terra Nova is still a newly developed crag and is beginning to see more traffic in the recent years.  Many routes are seldom climbed despite their ease of access and stellar movement.  This leaves a few of them ridden with moss, sand, or dirt inside holds or pockets.  Some routes have seen newly exfoliating rock.  Please do not be afraid to bring a small wire brush and clean up a route a bit as you climb or as you lower off and clean the pitch. 

As far as loose rocks are concerned, these routes have been cleaned up and loose rocks removed as they have been developed and bolted.  Much like Oregon's world class sport crag Smith Rock State Park, Terra Nova sees its share of loose or crispy holds.  If something dangerous is found, please report it in the route comments so that others are aware.  If you have to work hard to break a loose hold then you should probably leave it alone.  Helmets are recommended especially for the safety of the belayer as a loose rock falling from a climber above can seriously injure the belayer leading to a spooky rescue scenario that could have been avoided by simply wearing brain bucket.

Stick clips are recommended due to the high first bolt at many climbs, as well ad the exfoliating layers that often exist in the first 10 feet of climbing.  The high first bolt is place to protect a fall in this scenario.  Stick clips are so common these days, buy one or ask around at the crag if you forgot your own.

Local Amenities:

Terra Nova is located near Shady Cove, OR.  The small town hosts, Shady Cove Market, Phil's Frosty, Pizza at the Cove, Mac's Diner, and Goebel's Country BBQ.  

There are a few gas stations in Shady Cove as well as an auto parts store and a local hardware store.

Asks From the Developers:

If you've read this far then we are assuming that you might be familiar with how to use Mountain Project.  The local developers request that if you don't mind doing so, take a photo, post a photo to a route page, add a comment to a route, give it a star rating!  We love this crag as much as you and we ask that you help us share information on this page to make routes more approachable, and to help people decide what they want to spend their time on as they visit.

Concerning the listed grades of climbs, we are all probably familiar with the idea that climbing grades are subjective to the strengths, weaknesses, and body types of various climbers.  This often leads to a discrepancy of a given grade.  Please leave a suggested grade rating using the mountain project app so that we can better develop a consensus grade for each individual route at the crag.  This will help improve the experience we have as well as those who visit the crag after us.