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Routes in (d) Aggro Gully

Aggro Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Assassin, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Badass Mother S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Badman S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Burl Master, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crime Wave S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Disposable Heros S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drunkorexia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Feet of Clay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ghost Rider S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Highway to Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill My Hate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lucky Pigeon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Majestic Pigeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mama Daucus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planet Mechanic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouch Whisker S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Quickening, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Repeat Offender S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Scene of the Crime S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scrotal Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spewing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Up for Grabs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Villain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Wedding Crasher S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
White Wedding S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Colin Lantz and Greg Robinson 10/87
Page Views: 18,461 total · 118/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


218 Opinions

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Description

Toxic is short and sweet. It's probably the steepest moderate climb at Smith Rock. While the crux is somewhat height-dependant it's a dyno for virtually everybody. The holds are enormous and the fall isn't bad at all, so fire with everything you've got!

The large jugs are a welcome change from the crimps and pockets that are found on most routes here.

Toxic can be found at the far left end of the left side of the Aggro Gully. Belay from some large boulders at the base of the route.

Protection

5 bolts and a bolted anchor
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
AhHA!! Dyno for everybody!? Try a heel hook off the flake out on the right, you can do the move quite static if you get it figured out! Makes it easier too. Beautiful route! Feb 28, 2006
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
 
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
 
Fun crux, but way too short to be considered classic in my opinion. Mar 24, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Not too short to be classic in my book as the moves are so fun on this one.

Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definately was not easier. Oct 10, 2007
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
If you grab the huge hole as kind of a sidepull with your left hand, work your left foot up high on a small edge and heel hook the flake, it is easier for everyone 5'8 and up. Apr 15, 2009
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
 
The heel hook is the way to go. Dec 27, 2009
GoSharks   CA
Rated 11c in the new Watts guide. Don't know why it got bumped up. May 19, 2010
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
  5.11b
Corey McCarthy   Redmond, OR
  5.11b
Heel hook for sure. Feb 7, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
 
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
 
Super fun. It keeps on ya after the big move, but if you keep your head about you it's doable. Don't lose focus at the top, mantling on that ledge can be tricky!

Did something break off? I can't think of any reason the grade got bumped up. Aug 28, 2011
jordand
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
jordand   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Fun route, but kind of a one-move wonder. Above the crux it's a jug haul. May 28, 2013
Patrick Martinez
Chandler, AZ
  5.11b
Patrick Martinez   Chandler, AZ
  5.11b
Climbed last Thursday (July 3rd), the mussy's are worn about halfway through. Still okay to lower off, but seem to be getting a lot of TR action. Jul 8, 2014
Rod J.
Bend, OR
  5.11b/c
Rod J.   Bend, OR
  5.11b/c
I'm guessing that those who question the grade increase are 5'8" or taller. Ask a 'short' person what they think that it should be graded. (11d or harder?) May 26, 2016
This route is fantastic. Beautiful movement (even after the crux) on big holds with a challenging clipping stance for the anchors.

I am not a particularly tall climber (5'5") and I found the heel hook beta to be THE beta for me, but I also avoid dynos at most costs. A smaller lady (5'0) was also there when I was on it and the heel hook worked for her too.

Super fun, dynamic moves. Do it. For a "short" person like me, I would still give it a hard 11b or soft 11c by Smith standards. Sep 28, 2016
Alexander K
The road
Alexander K   The road
To add to the alternate beta spray:

I got on this after watching my partner go for the huge throw. I was able to work my feet high using the hueco and the undercling out right, then get a toe hook/cam with my left foot in the hueco, right next to my left hand. From there it was an easy static reach up to the next hold with my right. I didn't try heel hooking the flake but this made the moves feel very secure and not reachy. May 19, 2017
Anyone know who re-bolted this route with titanium glue-ins? They seem like a better choice for this type of rock. Jun 4, 2018

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