Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Colin Lantz and Greg Robinson 10/87
Page Views: 18,706 total · 118/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

221 Opinions

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Toxic is short and sweet. It's probably the steepest moderate climb at Smith Rock. While the crux is somewhat height-dependant it's a dyno for virtually everybody. The holds are enormous and the fall isn't bad at all, so fire with everything you've got!

The large jugs are a welcome change from the crimps and pockets that are found on most routes here.

Toxic can be found at the far left end of the left side of the Aggro Gully. Belay from some large boulders at the base of the route.


5 bolts and a bolted anchor
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
AhHA!! Dyno for everybody!? Try a heel hook off the flake out on the right, you can do the move quite static if you get it figured out! Makes it easier too. Beautiful route! Feb 28, 2006
Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
Fun crux, but way too short to be considered classic in my opinion. Mar 24, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Not too short to be classic in my book as the moves are so fun on this one.

Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definately was not easier. Oct 10, 2007
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
If you grab the huge hole as kind of a sidepull with your left hand, work your left foot up high on a small edge and heel hook the flake, it is easier for everyone 5'8 and up. Apr 15, 2009
Nick Sullens
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
The heel hook is the way to go. Dec 27, 2009
GoSharks   CA
Rated 11c in the new Watts guide. Don't know why it got bumped up. May 19, 2010
Corey McCarthy
Redmond, OR
Corey McCarthy   Redmond, OR
Heel hook for sure. Feb 7, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
Super fun. It keeps on ya after the big move, but if you keep your head about you it's doable. Don't lose focus at the top, mantling on that ledge can be tricky!

Did something break off? I can't think of any reason the grade got bumped up. Aug 28, 2011
Seattle, WA
jordand   Seattle, WA
Fun route, but kind of a one-move wonder. Above the crux it's a jug haul. May 28, 2013
Patrick Martinez
Chandler, AZ
Patrick Martinez   Chandler, AZ
Climbed last Thursday (July 3rd), the mussy's are worn about halfway through. Still okay to lower off, but seem to be getting a lot of TR action. Jul 8, 2014
Rod J.
Bend, OR
Rod J.   Bend, OR
I'm guessing that those who question the grade increase are 5'8" or taller. Ask a 'short' person what they think that it should be graded. (11d or harder?) May 26, 2016
This route is fantastic. Beautiful movement (even after the crux) on big holds with a challenging clipping stance for the anchors.

I am not a particularly tall climber (5'5") and I found the heel hook beta to be THE beta for me, but I also avoid dynos at most costs. A smaller lady (5'0) was also there when I was on it and the heel hook worked for her too.

Super fun, dynamic moves. Do it. For a "short" person like me, I would still give it a hard 11b or soft 11c by Smith standards. Sep 28, 2016
Alexander K
The road
Alexander K   The road
To add to the alternate beta spray:

I got on this after watching my partner go for the huge throw. I was able to work my feet high using the hueco and the undercling out right, then get a toe hook/cam with my left foot in the hueco, right next to my left hand. From there it was an easy static reach up to the next hold with my right. I didn't try heel hooking the flake but this made the moves feel very secure and not reachy. May 19, 2017
Anyone know who re-bolted this route with titanium glue-ins? They seem like a better choice for this type of rock. Jun 4, 2018