Type: Sport
FA: Martin Atkinson, May 1988
Page Views: 6,510 total · 44/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

After conquering The Quickening it's time to move on down to the serious stuff on this wall, and Aggro Monkey is the next logical step. It's steep, it has some big lockoffs with desperate stabs to pockets, and it's always got quickdraws hanging enticingly.

This is what the Aggro Wall is all about-- pumpy, thuggish, and powerful moves with gorgeous position on good rock.

Location

Aggro Wall, right side of the Aggro Gully (looking up)

Protection

Quickdraws
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.13b
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.13b
Definitely a hard route for me, being only 5'3". Many of the moves above the roof were large dead points, or small dynos. Pulling the roof was a bit easier though, being able to put my feet right on the lip. Oct 15, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
A number of taller folks think this route is 13a. I've heard a good argument in favor of the 13b grade for short peeps, considering that all of the numerous rests are really good (jugs for hands AND feet) if you are tall enough to reach between them, but for short folks all of the rests are good hands with bad feet, making them much more taxing. I'm not tall enough to test this theory.

Its probably the most accessible 13b at Smith, but still 13b, IMO. Substantially harder than Oxygen, Times Up & Darkness. Slightly easier than Slit Your Wrist. My towering 5'7" frame had to do an awful lot of deadpoints/dynos, so I'm not so sure that's a height thing. I was pretty weak on lockoffs at the time, and my technique was pretty lousy.

FWIW, I've heard a certain feisty local can't do all the moves on this, despite having redpointed White Wedding. Not sure how tall this person is, but probably around 5'0.

Look at the bright side, assuming your fingers are proportional to your height, you probably have a huge crimping advantage over tall people. Larger folks can't get their middle finger in the mono on Scene of the Crime. It goes both ways. Oct 16, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
This route has modern hardware. Check the publication date on your "plant hanger" source. Jan 25, 2009
Fred Gomez  
 
I was on the route this past Fall. I remember one suspect bolt. It is more of a dogging bolt than anything. It comes right below what I consider to be the redpoint crux. It was handy for me to clip the bolt and yard through it the first time to get a top rope up. I don't know which bolt it is, but it is about 2/3 of the way up the wall and it is pretty obvious. I just wouldn't want to trust the bolt to take too many whippers. Skipping the bolt and taking a whipper results in a clean fall.

Other than that I think there might be a few similar bolts at the beginning of the route. Not quite sure on that one, but it should not be an issue traversing through this 5.9 section. Jan 28, 2009
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
I'd believe it- if you're 5'0" I can't see any way you could get up to those underclings in the roof and that's not even the crux! Sep 27, 2010
kimmo
  5.13a
kimmo  
  5.13a
I'd concur with monomaniac's assessment: being 6'1", the route felt 13a to me, with the hardest move being the deadpoint near the top off the sloping cube (meaning: I don't agree with the photo caption above labeled "The Crux"; for me, both the roof pull low and the cube move high were much harder). Jan 16, 2012
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Can of worms here: in the past few years, people have started using a great rest that is about 8 inches off route. You can see it unchalked in Brad's photo labeled the crux. It's probably always been there, but oddly ignored. Skipping this rest certainly makes the route more sustained, but it would be ridiculous to call it off limits. May 5, 2017