Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JB Tribout
Page Views: 1,456 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Despite its quality, this route sits somewhat neglected near the top of the Aggro Gully, due to a difficult mono move. Locals claim the crux one-finger crank is harder than any move on White Wedding, and still others say that if you have fat fingers, you won't be able to fit your middle finger in the pocket at all.

However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick. The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux. Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket. More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.

Location

This is at the top of the big ramp on the Aggro Wall, left of Aggro Monkey.

Protection

Bolts. There is a belay bolt which should be considered mandatory, or use a stick clip.

Photos

- No Photos -
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
Everybody seems to talk about how heinous the mono move on this route is. I personally thought that move was the easiest of the crux sections. The start is definitely the hardest moves but there is a section up higher moving into and out of a diagonal undercling that spit me off many times from the ground.

Also, the book mentions going out left is bad style and I completely disagree. Even for someone tall it would be a massive move and would definitely make it 13c. Mar 31, 2016