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Routes in (d) Aggro Gully

Aggro Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Assassin, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Badass Mother S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Badman S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Burl Master, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crime Wave S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Disposable Heros S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drunkorexia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feet of Clay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ghost Rider S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Highway to Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill My Hate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lucky Pigeon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Majestic Pigeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mama Daucus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planet Mechanic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouch Whisker S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Quickening, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Repeat Offender S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Scene of the Crime S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scrotal Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soul Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toxic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Up for Grabs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Villain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Wedding Crasher S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
White Wedding S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,731 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Sep 20, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A good flow route with moderately difficult movement throughout. It begins by climbing the overhanging section of The Quickening, where you must traverse left on pumping jugs. You wont encounter a single stopper move, most plummet near the top on relatively decent holds.

You'll be tempted to climb to the right at the top, into The Quickening. Do not do this. Locals lower down in the gully will sneer and invalidate your ascent.

Location

Upper right wall. Top of the slab.

Protection

Bolts!

Photos

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Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.13b
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.13b
I think 13b seems fair for this one. I definitely don't agree with the 13c given in the guidebook, but I think it is a bit of a sandbag at 13a. The "power-endurance" nature of Disposable puts it in the same vein as Times Up and Churning in my mind, but I found it to be more difficult than either of these routes. The lack of feet at the rest jug above the roof makes for a not-so-relaxing break and it's all business from there to the chains. Having watched quite a few friends (of all sizes) climb this route, I feel like most agree with the 13b grade.

Regardless, it's a fun route with great movement and bad rock. Chances are good that if you climb this route any more than a few months from now, many holds won't resemble the ones I used. Some get better, most get worse. Just the cycle of life in the Aggro Gully I suppose. Apr 30, 2014
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
Given that the route has not 1, but 4 solid resting spots, Id say it's a lot less continuous than the routes you mentioned. Combined with a lack of a distinct crux, I think 13a is totally fair.

I will say this route is continually evolving and it's entirely possible that at some point in the near future it could be much harder. Apr 30, 2014
Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.13b
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.13b
Four rest spots if you're Ryan Palo. . .

. . .and you include the ground and the jug at the anchors. Apr 30, 2014
and another question: current guidebook has 4 letter grades between quickening and disposable. I think two letters harder for disposable (my opinion), so not sure if would be 13b and 12d or 13a and 12c. 4 letters is too much! for me its right about same difficulty as aggro monkey and about same as times up. Jun 8, 2014
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
I used to kid around about it being 13a, now Im pretty sure it's a low end 13a. Recently one of the worse holds on the route, which was in the mid crux(section where you surf out the the crescent rest) broke into a nice sidepull.

Is this route really as hard as Scene of the Crime? Does it have moves anywhere as hard as the lower section of Aggro Monkey? Does it feel a letter grade easier than Crime Wave or Lucky Pigeon? Jun 9, 2014
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.13b
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.13b
I agree with Eric on this one. I can see how having limitless sources of endurance might make this one feel 13a, but in my opinion, a notch harder than other 13a routes at Smith. "Churning in the Gully" is an appropriate name for the route. Too bad the rock quality isn't a bit better. Aug 28, 2014
Steven Dimmitt
  5.13b
Steven Dimmitt  
  5.13b
I agree with the 13b grade, I did this one shortly after climbing all the classic 13a's and it was definitely a step up. I've been back on it more recently too and still feel the same way. To me it feels on par with Aggro and Slit, harder than Time's Up and Oxygen, and easier than Ozone and Scene.

There may not be any exceptionally difficult moves, but it builds really quickly and there is a power endurance factor that you might not notice if you have 14c finger strength (sorry Ryan :D).

Really nice line. Nov 22, 2017

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