Type: Sport
FA: Brooke Sandahl 2014
Page Views: 332 total · 5/month
Shared By: CritConrad on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is the route just a few feet to the right of Toxic. 3 bolts of easy climbing eventually force you onto jugs on the face where you clip the fourth bolt and are then met with a very well-protected, straightforward, and difficult crux.

A few huge cranks on pockets lead to the next bolt and then finish up on some edges and crimps to the anchor. The top looks relatively bare from the ground, but there are more than enough holds to get you through.

The climbing is very unsustained and the crux is quite short-lived. I didn't find it to be very pumpy, but in my experience, the move was fairly low percentage.

It is quite close to Toxic and I even ended up using one of the same holds, but IMO this didn't seem overly contrived and I didn't feel like it detracted from the route.

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12b
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12b
I'd be curious to see what some other people think of the grade of this thing. Its seemed very much a one move wonder and I think my ape index played into it feeling easier. Oct 21, 2013
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
There's a somewhat contrived method of avoiding all of the holds on Toxic. I felt that was inline with the other 12+s in the area. If you use the shared jug in the crux section, it's significantly easier. Another fun link is to join the bottom of Soul Crusher, avoid the crux of Toxic, climb Toxic around the crux of SC, and summit on SC. Nov 5, 2013