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Routes in (d) Aggro Gully

Aggro Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Assassin, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Badass Mother S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Badman S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Burl Master, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crime Wave S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Disposable Heros S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drunkorexia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feet of Clay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ghost Rider S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Highway to Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill My Hate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lucky Pigeon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Majestic Pigeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mama Daucus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planet Mechanic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouch Whisker S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Quickening, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Repeat Offender S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Scene of the Crime S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scrotal Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skinny Sweaty Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soul Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toxic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Up for Grabs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Villain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Wedding Crasher S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
White Wedding S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport
FA: Brooke Sandahl 2014
Page Views: 236 total, 5/month
Shared By: CritConrad on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is the route just a few feet to the right of Toxic. 3 bolts of easy climbing eventually force you onto jugs on the face where you clip the fourth bolt and are then met with a very well-protected, straightforward, and difficult crux.

A few huge cranks on pockets lead to the next bolt and then finish up on some edges and crimps to the anchor. The top looks relatively bare from the ground, but there are more than enough holds to get you through.

The climbing is very unsustained and the crux is quite short-lived. I didn't find it to be very pumpy, but in my experience, the move was fairly low percentage.

It is quite close to Toxic and I even ended up using one of the same holds, but IMO this didn't seem overly contrived and I didn't feel like it detracted from the route.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
There's a somewhat contrived method of avoiding all of the holds on Toxic. I felt that was inline with the other 12+s in the area. If you use the shared jug in the crux section, it's significantly easier. Another fun link is to join the bottom of Soul Crusher, avoid the crux of Toxic, climb Toxic around the crux of SC, and summit on SC. Nov 5, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
I'd be curious to see what some other people think of the grade of this thing. Its seemed very much a one move wonder and I think my ape index played into it feeling easier. Oct 21, 2013