Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: who knows
Page Views: 786 total · 12/month
Shared By: Andrew Hunzicker on May 29, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Really fun route for the grade, with almost no painful holds or super hard moves. Working this route you get to repeatedly do the lower Aggro Monkey crux which results in finally learning the correct beta and actual enjoyment of the lower roof.

From there, you get a great rest and then up and right for about 20 feet of really fun climbing (11 plus/12a) with ending with a really fun big move off a left gaston to latch the "basketball" hold with your right. The "basketball" has a great curved lip for both hands and you clip here and try to get a quick shake before the crux.

The crux is grabbing poor left hand, setting feet on two bad holds and dyno for a big four finger pocket that is very soft, but hard to hold. If you latch the hold, do the "jump on your kitchen counter top move" to get your left foot on basketball, then balance up and match on a really slipperly sloper. You are standing on a huge foothold so just hold on very gently and gingerly bring right up to good foot and quick pop to good holds. Clip and very fun big moves/big holds to anchor.

I've fallen off this route a lot and its really fun, send or no send.

Location

agrro gully

Protection

fixed bolts

Photos

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CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
While I wont say that this thing is a sandbag (I really don't think it is) I will say that it is a big step up from Aggro Monkey in my opinion. I had always thought it would be the logical progression. I can do aggro monkey, mama D shouldn't be too much harder. Aggro Monkey was my 2nd 5.13 and took me less than 10 tries. This thing, over four years later, took me almost 40! I think it has to do with the low-percentage nature of the crux. Once you dial in the opening climbing, it doesn't feel too bad. But while aggro has a string of multiple hard moves in a row for basically the entire upper section, Mama D has 2 extra hard moves surrounded by easier climbing.

Also, the basketball is not the jug you were looking for Sep 27, 2017