Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Michael Keiss, Fall 1987
Page Views: 3,164 total · 21/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Steep, powerful 5.11+ climbing on positive huecos and pockets leads past the first three bolts and brings you to the first rest. When you feel focused and composed move into the most technical part of the route- an insecure sequence revolving around an almost nonexistent vertical seam, and a bunch of very small pockets and pebbles ending with a dynamic move. From here traverse left, and get psyched to skip the eighth bolt and commit to the slightly runout, off balance redpoint crux. After clipping the ninth bolt, try to recover some energy for the final boulder problem and the extremely pumpy lieback section that protects the anchors.

Location

Between Villain and Badman on the Aggro Wall. The most distinctive things about this route are the small overlap at midheight and the lieback crack just before the chains.

Protection

13 quickdraws including the eighth bolt(skipped on redpoint by most), and the two anchors. The eighth bolt allows you to work on the crux without taking unnecessary falls.

Photos

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Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13d
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13d
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
vimeo.com/50391875 Oct 12, 2013