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Routes in (d) Aggro Gully

Aggro Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Assassin, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Badass Mother S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Badman S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Burl Master, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crime Wave S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Disposable Heros S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drunkorexia S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feet of Clay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ghost Rider S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Highway to Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill My Hate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lucky Pigeon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Majestic Pigeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mama Daucus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Planet Mechanic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouch Whisker S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Quickening, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Repeat Offender S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Scene of the Crime S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Scrotal Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skinny Sweaty Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soul Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toxic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Up for Grabs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Villain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Wedding Crasher S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
White Wedding S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Michael Keiss, Fall 1987
Page Views: 2,649 total, 20/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Steep, powerful 5.11+ climbing on positive huecos and pockets leads past the first three bolts and brings you to the first rest. When you feel focused and composed move into the most technical part of the route- an insecure sequence revolving around an almost nonexistent vertical seam, and a bunch of very small pockets and pebbles ending with a dynamic move. From here traverse left, and get psyched to skip the eighth bolt and commit to the slightly runout, off balance redpoint crux. After clipping the ninth bolt, try to recover some energy for the final boulder problem and the extremely pumpy lieback section that protects the anchors.

Location

Between Villain and Badman on the Aggro Wall. The most distinctive things about this route are the small overlap at midheight and the lieback crack just before the chains.

Protection

13 quickdraws including the eighth bolt(skipped on redpoint by most), and the two anchors. The eighth bolt allows you to work on the crux without taking unnecessary falls.

Photos

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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
vimeo.com/50391875 Oct 12, 2013
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT