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Routes in (d) Aggro Gully
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Aggro Monkey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Assassin, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Badass Mother S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Badman S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Burl Master, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crankenstein S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crime Wave S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Delinquent S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Disposable Heros S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Drunkorexia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Feet of Clay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ghost Rider S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Highway to Hell S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kill The Hate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kiss Fight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lucky Pigeon S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Majestic Pigeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mama Daucus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Planet Mechanic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pouch Whisker S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Quickening, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Repeat Offender S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Scene of the Crime S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scrotal Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Skinny Sweaty Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Soul Crusher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spewing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Toxic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Up for Grabs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Villain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Wedding Crasher S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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White Wedding S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | JB Tribout, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 6,309 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Dec 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Badman takes off on overhanging jugs, crimpy pockets, and under-clings for three bolts. The first crux is an amazing, desperate, dynamic problem from a good undercling to a nasty two finger pocket (clip in the meantime), then a powerful pull from the pocket to another two finger pocket gaston. Once you have the second pocket, move your feet up, maybe gaston with your right hand, and get set for the exhilarating throw to a big flat jug.
The moves flow more amicably from here until you hit a second crux: reach out left, finger-lock in a small, sharp (foot)hold, step high with your right, and snag the sloper. I consider this the second of three cruxes, but maybe others don't share that opinion.
For the final crux, establish on the powerful underclings, boldly trust the feet, and stab high, with your right hand, into a positive two-finger pocket. There is shitty sloper-crimp-thumb-catch that works for an intermediate, but I wouldn't expect much. While significantly more powerful than the first crux, it doesn't require a dyno, so it is higher probability for me.
From the pocket, dance up through a delightful series of huge pockets, with long reaches in between. This gives those big muscle groups a workout, and lets the fingers rest a little.
Expect 5.11 climbing for a couple of bolts, and then a couple bolts worth of medium/hard 5.12 before you make it to a rail that leads to the anchor. These moves are actually quite technical and sequential. The toughest moves involve locking off on a right hand pocket (awkward for me), grabbing a crappy left hand duo, and working the feet up high to double drop knees. Bear down on the beloved triangle hold with the left hand, and then shimmy yourself over to the right to grab a good hold. You'll have to lock this thing off to your hip, so get your feet high, and stab your left hand into a tight two finger pocket that feels miles away. It's hard to say, because I'm wrecked by that point, but the headwall could be 12d.
As hard as each of the problems is, the hardest thing is that there aren't any rests until you hit the big pockets at sixty feet. At that point, you still have thirty feet to go. Rhythm is everything.
The moves flow more amicably from here until you hit a second crux: reach out left, finger-lock in a small, sharp (foot)hold, step high with your right, and snag the sloper. I consider this the second of three cruxes, but maybe others don't share that opinion.
For the final crux, establish on the powerful underclings, boldly trust the feet, and stab high, with your right hand, into a positive two-finger pocket. There is shitty sloper-crimp-thumb-catch that works for an intermediate, but I wouldn't expect much. While significantly more powerful than the first crux, it doesn't require a dyno, so it is higher probability for me.
From the pocket, dance up through a delightful series of huge pockets, with long reaches in between. This gives those big muscle groups a workout, and lets the fingers rest a little.
Expect 5.11 climbing for a couple of bolts, and then a couple bolts worth of medium/hard 5.12 before you make it to a rail that leads to the anchor. These moves are actually quite technical and sequential. The toughest moves involve locking off on a right hand pocket (awkward for me), grabbing a crappy left hand duo, and working the feet up high to double drop knees. Bear down on the beloved triangle hold with the left hand, and then shimmy yourself over to the right to grab a good hold. You'll have to lock this thing off to your hip, so get your feet high, and stab your left hand into a tight two finger pocket that feels miles away. It's hard to say, because I'm wrecked by that point, but the headwall could be 12d.
As hard as each of the problems is, the hardest thing is that there aren't any rests until you hit the big pockets at sixty feet. At that point, you still have thirty feet to go. Rhythm is everything.
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